Chez La Vieille

Restaurants, French 1st arrondissement
Recommended
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • 4 out of 5 stars
(1user review)
1 Love It
Save it
Chez la vieille (Chez la vieille @ZT)
1/3
Chez la vieille @ZT
Chez la vieille (Chez la vieille @ZT)
2/3
Chez la vieille @ZT
Chez la vieille (Chez la vieille @ZT)
3/3
Chez la vieille @ZT

What happens when an American chef revisits French classics? Magic.

Chez La Vieille still carries the name of chez Adrienne, after the female chef who ran it with military precision in the eighties. Celebrities used to come for casual, classic French bistro dining but after Japanese chef Ichiei Taguma left, the American Daniel Rose (head chef at Spring and Bourse et la Vie), took the reins to pay homage to Adrienne’s classic Gallic cooking.

You can sit without a reservation or just to have a drink at the downstairs counter-bar, or at one of the twenty tables in the cosy bourgeois room upstairs. The menu is the same for dinner and lunch; whelks with soft and creamy homemade mayo (€9), a duck terrine with a lovely balance of horseradish and beetroot (€11) and the shining star: blanquette de veau (€20) served in it’s own Staub casserole dish with carrots and mushrooms. The sauce was so good we couldn’t bear to leave a single drop. Then to finish, a beautifully buttery pear clafoutis.

There is a real authenticity in Rose's approach, both in the menu and the atmosphere of the place. At lunch, our neighbour makes us try his Alsace white wine, while his wife slips us a few scandalous tales and the waiter raises a toast with us. At midnight that evening, the same gang are drinking, laughing and clinking glasses. It seems too laidback, too lively for the 1st arrondissement, which isn’t exactly known for it’s bon vivant vibe. Here, the golden years are alive and well, you can be sure of it.

TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE

By: Zazie Tavitian

Posted:

Venue name: Chez La Vieille
Contact:
Address: 1 rue Bailleul
1er
Paris

Opening hours: Tue-Sat midday-2.30pm, 7.30pm-10.30pm, bar open until 1am serving wine and terrines
Transport: Metro : Louvre - Rivoli
Price: Starters €8-13, mains €11-20, desserts €6, bottles from €25
Do you own this business?
LiveReviews|1
1 person listening
Nat
tastemaker

Chez la Vieille has suddenly been getting a lot of good press, so I forced my boyfriend to check it out with me one night. It is in the center of Paris and has that old style French charm, which is sure to attract lots of tourists. I wasn't a fan of the actual dining room upstairs, as it was a little too stuffy and "wannabe posh" for my taste.Then again, it is called "Chez la Vieille"! The food, however, was delicious: I had the boudin with apple sauce, followed by the "demi coquelet à la diable" (a small tender chicken with mushrooms, that was equally tasty), and a pear tart for dessert (a little disappointing as the pie crust was rock hard). My boyfriend had the blanquette de veau and we assumed it was an off-night for the chef as the sauce was rather thick and lacked much taste (nothing like what we had seen in previous customer's photos). I'd try going for lunch next time, as the food was, overall, really good and I'm always wiling to give restaurants a second chance when the service is good.