In the place of Vivant Cave now sits a Neopolitan pizzeria, the aptly named Da Graziella. Highly recommended by the owner/waiter and his companion Arnaud Lacombe, is the fried pizza, a typically Neoapolitan dish: fresh ingredients are placed on fried dough, which is then wood-fired. The Amatrice (buffalo ricotta, guanciale pig cheek, basil and olive oil) is magnificent. The Mastu Graziella wood-fired pizza with anchovies, pecorino, mint and fresh tomato,with a layer of melt-in-the-mouth Casernato ham is sublime too. There’s a joyous little list of Italian wines and if you have any room for dessert, do not miss the decadent fried pizza dough with chocolate sauce. True bliss.