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Chic and surprising dishes by Adrien Ferrand in the 10th.
Who’s it for? Anyone with a thing for citrus flavours, herbs and spices.
What should I order? The smoked eel with matcha mousse.
The open kitchen at Eels is the room’s central focus, and the minimal décor is as on-trend as it comes – as we had expected from Adrien Ferrand, who was trained by William Ledeuil and shares his love of fresh herbs, citrus flavours and spices. A dish of eel pieces is ever-so-slightly smoky, with a cloud of foamed matcha and oxalis leaves. Grilled squid (€27) is served with spelt and watercress purée, and is made wedding breakfast-perfect with lemon and Thai basil leaves, cutting through the flavours beautifully. The acidity, hints of aniseed and crispy, meaty squid make this dish a true standout.
Desserts pack a punch too: think creamy coconut, pineapple and lime (€11), with a skilful balance of flavours. Eels – we’re ever so smitten.
27 rue d’Hauteville
|Transport:||Metro: Bonne nouvelle|
|Price:||Three-course lunch menu €29, evening €56, à la carte €45-50.|
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sat 12.30-2pm, 7.30-10pm|