Once a coaching inn in the 17th century and now an elegant restaurant in the heart of the touristy Marais, Grand Coeur is the latest offering from Mauro Colagreco, probably best known for his double Michelin starred address Mirazur in Menton. But forget overly formal, regimented fine dining – this homey restaurant eschews any pretensions, mainly thanks to its welcoming, chatty atmosphere and a vibrant seasonal menu from Brazilian chef Rafaël Gomes.
We start with a silky cream soup packed with warming springtime flavours like peas, asparagus and broccoli, with a vinegar-soaked canary yellow egg yolk perched on top. The rest of the menu follows this lead (inventive re-imaginings of simple classics), like the standout dish of sumptuously cooked pollock served in a thick yoghurt sauce and with cucumber slices, beautifully seasoned in coriander. The desserts tread a similarly bold path too: Colagreco’s signature ‘Naranjo en Flor’, for example, brims with exciting Middle Eastern flavours, its lush custard sauce cannily infused with orange, orange blossom, almonds and saffron. Though by no means groundbreaking cuisine, the dish is elegantly done.
Prices inevitably reflect the high quality of food and drink you get here (an evening meal can quickly add up to €50), so for the best deals, it’s best to come here in the early afternoon for their more reasonably priced lunch menu.
TRANSLATION: FLORA HUDSON