Who’s it for? Hipsters.
What should I order? The reinvigorating tripe with olives and mash.
From the outside, this little address near Bastille appears quite unassuming. Nothing but the name L’Amarante and the words ‘Cuisine de France’ are printed on the glass, but once inside, its burgundy benches, white walls and hanging bulbs feel oh-so on trend. It’s the bistro of dreams thanks to chef Christophe Philippe and dishes like beef cheek, simmered for thirty hours so you barely even need a knife to cut it. The finely sliced veal tongue (€12) is just as sublime, served with homemade mayonnaise.
As for drinks, go for a glass of Sylvain Bock’s red Raffut 2015 (€5), with the aptly-named €22 worker’s menu (12.30-2.30pm). The €19 set menu is unbeatable, for example a sole taramasalata to start, with an ultra-fresh, perfectly seasoned green salad, then a reinvigorating tripe dish with olives, nestled on a mound of mash. Dessert is out of the question with these portion sizes but goodness, it is tempting.