If Montmartre is unique to Paris, it’s because its residents have basically formed a cult, keeping the secrets of this villagey atmosphere just for themselves, so tourists and Parisians alike can barely scratch the surface. It took chef Gilles Marchal a lot of balls – and time – to tame Montmartre, while still managing to pay tribute to it. First came his pâtisserie, then his biscuit factory and finally Bistrot de la Galette, located just near the mill of the same name.
Marchal and his partner Alain de la Rochère have taken what used to be a trendy restaurant and resuscitated it back to the old Montmartre style. Highlights include the puff-pastry galettes which Marchal makes in his biscuit factory and then reheats in the kitchen. He serves them with tomato pesto as a starter, or cooked burger-style with pork shoulder, chicken or fish of the day. They’re similar to Jean Imbert and Eric Kayser’s baked brioche at Bols de Jean. The airy, light pastry holds well, making it a surprisingly light lunch choice.
The desserts are a big hit, from the revisited classics like rum baba and chocolate fondant, to the newbies such as the millefeuille d'arlettes. A must-eat spot for anyone hoping to rediscover Montmartre.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE