Who’s it for? Fans of haute bistro cuisine.
What should I order? The grilled Basque octopus with garlic mousse, dill and raw beetroot.
When should I go? For lunch, when the set menus are €18-21.
Gleaming with fifties elegance, you can sink into these duck-egg blue banquettes seven days a week – which, in Paris, is a true bonus. This high-end bistro is reasonably priced, with Wahid Sahed (ex-Bristol) in the driving seat during the week and Antonin Mandel (of Shangri-La and Ze Kitchen Galerie fame) taking the reins at the weekend.
Expect French classics, like tête de veau, but with more globe-trotting flavours too, such as grilled Basque octopus with garlic mousse, dill and raw beetroot. These punchy dishes are best accompanied by picks from Guillaume Maugain’s wine list (formerly at Verre Volé), such as a Pierres blanches 2016 Gaillac from the Domaine de Brin.
The main course raises the bar evening higher: grilled hake on quinoa and crunchy wild black rice, with glazed carrots and chicory leaves. Dessert was a dreamy tonka bean panna cotta with rum caramelised pineapple. All should be enjoyed on the huge terrace. Alfresco dining par excellence.
