Translating as ‘tables’ in Latin, Mensae is the debut opening from 23-year-old Kevin D’Andréa, who was a finalist on 2015 French TV competition ‘Top Chef’. With its trendy ceiling lights, wooden tables and white walls decorated with hanging saucepans, the décor doesn't stand out, but the food – predominantly traditional French dishes with a modern twist – is very impressive. The kitchen specialises in sharing plates, such as frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley served in a saucepan, which is simple but perfectly done, or a comforting dish of pork cheeks cooked in a brilliantly potent stew and flanked by a side of creamy polenta. Drinks-wise, the short wine list offers only the most fashionable of bottles, with one particular highlight being the light and fruity ‘Natural Circus’ from the Château de Chainchon, an organic 2013 vintage found all over trendy Parisian restaurant tables.
TRANSLATION: HUW OLIVER