Welcome to Polissons, the new restaurant from Romain Lamon and his partner Julia Sfez. Scandinavian furniture, vintage chairs and minimalist decor, it’s got all the trappings of a neo-bistro. Owned by the former head of Richer, it is clear this area hasn’t quite had its fill of bistromonical addresses.
Go for the lunchtime set menu, which at €21, is unbeatably good value for money. To start, a mushroom consommé followed by blanquette de veau with hazelnut chips and a handful of parsley to keep things fresh. The meat is tender and the vegetables are nicely al dente, a marvel of a dish that so often falls by the wayside.
If you’re after more sophisticated cuisine, order à la carte; oyster, scallop and wasabi tartare (€12) or saddle of rabbit, runny egg yolk and split pea purée (€19). Everything is perfectly executed.
We can only thank our lucky stars that we decided to order dessert. It was pure heaven: a milk chocolate, perfectly round shell hiding a base of sweet vanilla mousse, caramel and puffed rice. It is as if a Kinder Surprise® and a Crunch® bar had a love child: nostalgic and dangerously addictive.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE