Another bistronomical address in the 18th arrondissement.
Welcome to Polissons, the new restaurant from Romain Lamon and his partner Julia Sfez. Scandinavian furniture, vintage chairs and minimalist decor, it’s got all the trappings of a neo-bistro. Owned by the former head of Richer, it is clear this area hasn’t quite had its fill of bistromonical addresses.
Go for the lunchtime set menu, which at €21, is unbeatably good value for money. To start, a mushroom consommé followed by blanquette de veau with hazelnut chips and a handful of parsley to keep things fresh. The meat is tender and the vegetables are nicely al dente, a marvel of a dish that so often falls by the wayside.
If you’re after more sophisticated cuisine, order à la carte; oyster, scallop and wasabi tartare (€12) or saddle of rabbit, runny egg yolk and split pea purée (€19). Everything is perfectly executed.
We can only thank our lucky stars that we decided to order dessert. It was pure heaven: a milk chocolate, perfectly round shell hiding a base of sweet vanilla mousse, caramel and puffed rice. It is as if a Kinder Surprise® and a Crunch® bar had a love child: nostalgic and dangerously addictive.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE
35 rue Ramey
|Opening hours:||Tue-Sat midday-2.30pm, 7.30-11pm|
|Price:||Three-course set lunch €21, a la carte €35|