Vingt Vins d'Art
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Japanese-French cooking and natural wines in the Marais.
Certain addresses function perfectly well without the help of the media, getting bums on seats with just their quality, neighbourhood clientele and word of mouth. In this case, it was the chef from Retro Bottega, who tipped us off. In a hidden street just behind Saint-Paul, Vingt Vins d’Art is a combination of wooden tables, jazz music and adorable service. This zen little bistro mixes French and Japanese with panache, bringing all of it together with a beautiful selection of natural wines.
‘Abri’ mackerel is cooked and seasoned perfectly, then ‘tartare don’(Aubrac beef on vinagered rice topped with nori seaweed leaves) is delicate and well thought through. For dessert, a soft and not overly sweetened cheesecake tatin; this is modest perfectly executed food. There’s around ten wines by the glass (€4-6), like the Bourgueil 2015 Jour de Soif, Bel Air Gauthier, or a Christophe Blanc syrah, intense and with notes of vanilla. On Sundays, the whole area seems to pile in for brunch, so it would be wise to book ahead.
We’ll be back for sure, as this place doesn’t try to tick the fashionable boxes and yet still manages to be on-trend and a total breath of fresh air.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE
16 rue de Jouy
|Price:||Starters €7-9, mains €15-17, desserts €6-8.|
|Opening hours:||Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight, Sat-Sun midday-3pm, 7pm-midnight|