Amble down the Rue Ravignan. On your left, you’ll pass larger-than-life antique shop Zut!, as well as the building where the poet Max Jacob lived, which is now occupied by an estate agents. Then pass onto the Rue des Abbesses, and continue right until you reach the Rue Audran, where you should check in at Al Caratello, a lovely Italian restaurant where we recommend you try the Calamaretti Saltati in padella. Or any of the hearty pasta plates. Or the pizzas, for that matter.
With a full stomach, go back onto the Rue des Abbesses. On your first left (the Rue Aristide Bruant), browse quirky vintage shop Rose Bunker or walk onto the Rue Tholozé a little further up the street, where you’ll discover the legendary cinema Studio 28. Enjoy a peaceful moment in the shaded garden, before entering the cinema itself to find out what’s on the programme today.
2.30pm: A retro film screening and a trip to the cabaret
Once your film has finished, it’s time to stop dillydallying and climb that hill. Walk to the end of the Rue Tholozé, then take the Rue Lepic (on the right) which turns onto Place Jean-Baptiste Clément. Although it’s undeniably touristy, its cobbled streets and ancient walls help preserve the area’s historic, picturesque charm.
On the left, follow the Rue des Saulnes. At the intersection with the Rue de l’Abreuvoir, you’ll come across the famous ‘Maison Rose’, immortalised in the Maurice Utrillo painting of the same name. Further along, passing the Clos Montmartre vineyard, you’ll come across the Lapin Agile, the reputed cabaret of Aristide Bruant, which holds a special place in the much-mythologised history of Parisian bohemia.