Beyond the iconic Place de la République – where Parisians gathered in record numbers after the 2015 attacks on their city – is a glorious network of streets crammed with some of the best venues in the city. République itself was renovated in 2014, and while the square with its busy ring of traffic isn't exactly relaxing, it has a smart café and lots of good people-watching, from skaters to demonstrators. If it's a grungy night out you're after, Rue Oberkampf and surrounding streets foot the bill nicely with row upon row of humming shabby-chic bars. Still, Oberkampf's southern extremities are resolutely chic – especially in the 3rd, where ever-gentrifying streets around Rue Vieille du Temple are awash with designers on the rise and old craft workshops. Rue Charlot is typical of the trend, with smart boutiques that rub shoulders with art galleries. In this part of town, those in the know head to the Marché des Enfants Rouges, the city's oldest market (dating back to 1615), lined with food stalls each more fragrant than the next.