If this isn’t your first trip to Prague, or you’re more interested in a glimpse of local life than major monuments, make this grittier neighbourhood your base (think functional concrete apartment blocks, rather than historic pastel façades). Sprawling Žižkov, which starts around the square at Jiřího z Poděbrad and extends off the eastern edge of most tourist maps, is known for its high concentration of pubs, so you’ll never be far from a drink.
What to do
You haven’t seen Žižkov without a stop at the TV Tower. Stand at the base and admire the David Černy baby sculptures crawling the walls, take a trip up to the observatory deck, enjoy a cocktail with a view in the bar or splurge on a fancy dinner at the Oblaca restaurant. For a more casual evening, visit Kino Aero to discuss independent film over drinks on their outdoor patio.
Where to eat
A meal in Žižkov is often secondary to the beer that accompanies it. Case in point, the beautifully understated Pivo a Párek, which roughly translates as ‘beer and hot dogs’, which is all they serve. Heartier appetites should head to U Slovanské Lipy for traditional Czech cuisine or to U Sadu for late-night, post-pub grub.
What to drink
Travellers flock to Beer Geek to compare the merits of its 32 draught beers, while cocktail fans congregate over candlelight at Bukowski’s Bar. On a sunny day, head to the beer garden at the base of Vítkov Hill for prime dog watching as you sip golden lager in the sun.
Where to stay
Unless you feel like splurging on a luxury hotel room at the top of the Žižkov TV Tower, Airbnb is your best bet for comfortable accommodation in this area.
If you only do one thing...
Walk to the top of Vítkov Hill to watch the sunset away from the crowds.