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There are quirky hotels – and then there’s Mama Shelter. The brand, with 20 hotels across fourteen cities, and a Singapore branch set to open in August, sells itself on ‘exciting design, inclusivity, good food and a playful atmosphere’. Its Rome branch, open since July 2021, certainly fits into this model. Like the hotel group’s first location in Paris’s 20th arrondissement, a former industrial heartland, Mama Shelter Rome is hardly in the most glamorous part of the Italian capital, but its design, idiosyncratic vibe and friendly staff make up for that. Stepping inside from the pretty average streets, I found a cool, casual atmosphere, with good local food spots, an unusual pool and more. The four-star hotel is pretty much a perfect base for those looking to experience a different side of Rome, while still being just a few minutes walk from the Vatican, and a short Metro ride from the city’s other well-trodden spots – crucially, of course, it’s affordable too.
Why stay at Mama Shelter?
If you’re after a fun, lively and affordable place to stay in Rome, Mama Shelter has you covered. When you arrive at the unassuming exterior, you’re greeted with a branded Vespa at the entrance and, once inside, it’s like being transported to the most bizarre antiques warehouse in existence – in a good way. Carpets are emblazoned with pizzas and sculptures of goddesses, vintage football card prints adorn the curtains and lifts and lamps in the shape of St Peter’s Basilica – just down the road – hang above the reception desk, staffed by multilingual workers who’ll greet you with a smile. Public areas are built for fun – think vintage arcade games and pinball machines at every turn – and rooms are spacious, comfortable and with uniquely unorthodox decor. The pool area has to be seen to be believed and the rooftop, with views of Vatican City, is simply one of the coolest places in Rome. Plus, with rooms starting at €130 a night for two, it’s a great option in an often expensive city which won’t break the bank.
What are the rooms like at Mama Shelter?
There are 217 rooms from ‘Medium Mamas’, which are at least 20m², all the way up to ‘XL Mama Family’ rooms, which come with a balcony, up to 37m² of space, and two queen-size beds. I was welcomed in with daubings on the mirrors including ‘Mama loves you’ and ‘strike a pose’ which, naturally, I did – the rooms are too much fun not to take a few selfies. The somewhat garish decor in the rest of the hotel is toned down in the bedrooms – probably so you can get some sleep.
Designed by a team led by Benjamin El Doghaïli, rattan framed beds provide comfort and convenience, with plug sockets built into them and a small desk behind the headboard. Giant TVs with free films, mini fridges and open, metal wardrobes in pared-back colours come as standard. Only the carpet, in abstract patterns, and masks – gladiators, Star Wars characters, Looney Tunes – at either side of the bed are really quite out-there. Larger rooms have seating areas, with furniture upholstered in brash, floral fabrics, but all the bathrooms are relatively simple and subtle, with pastel tiles, rainfall showers and organic toiletries. Large windows let in plenty of natural light and many rooms have fairly plain, wraparound balconies with views onto the residential streets. Despite this proximity, rooms are remarkably quiet and I – a terrible insomniac – had a fantastic night’s sleep in almost perfect peace.
What is the food like at Mama Shelter?
For a hotel of this size, you might be surprised to discover that there are four eating outlets, including a pizzeria, bar and restaurant, breakfast hub and rooftop, which sometimes plays host to DJs. Every Monday, guests can eat as much pizza as they like for €25pp (it’s good, too), while dog menus reflect Mama Shelter’s pet-friendly attitude. The killer rooftop bar offers brilliant views, a great selection of drinks – try the Mai Tai – in a buzzy atmosphere with mismatched chairs and tables and an imposing red-and-white striped bar as a centrepiece. Drinks come with genuinely great aperitivo snacks too – traditional taralli, homemade crisps in a paper bag and tasty green olives. Cheese and meat boards compliment gnocchi and burgers, with veggie options available. My tomato and mozzarella focaccia was the perfect savoury snack and great value at €8 for a large helping. People complain that the rooftop doesn’t open until six, which is a shame, but it was packed shortly after it opened.
Breakfast, however, at an extra £17pp, was less exciting. The food is a basic buffet with pastries, fruit and pre-cooked eggs and meats. The coffee was great, but the overall experience was grimly chaotic. It was rather like being at breakfast in Disneyland, with children grizzling, music blasting, cartoons playing on three screens and staff who were clearly feeling a little over it. I arrived half an hour before breakfast ended, and was simply told ‘you have fifteen minutes’. You’re far better off picking up pastries at a pasticceria nearby.
What’s the service like at Mama Shelter?
Apart from breakfast, the service at Mama Shelter is warm, relaxed and approachable. Even the charming handyman insisted on helping me twice when he could have ignored me. From check-in to check-out, the service is efficient yet laid-back, and the friendly team, who flip between a multitude of languages, are eager to help make your stay as enjoyable as possible. When I apologised for asking too many questions, they said they were there to help at any hour, and I didn’t feel like I was inconveniencing them at all.
What are the pools and facilities like at Mama Shelter?
The spa area, which boasts a pool, sauna, steam room and indoor and outdoor seating, is tucked away on the hotel’s lower level. It’s only open to guests who need to book hour-long slots ahead of time, although I didn’t find that it was strictly monitored. Its design is one of the most unusual parts about the hotel, with a mysterious backroom (or ‘liminal space’ vibe). Picture dim lighting, tiled walls, swirly designs in washed-out tones and an almost moss-green pool. The steam room and small sauna are perfect for relaxing after a day of exploring, and there’s also a small but functional gym, complete with cardio machines and weights. It’s not a particularly high-end facility, but it gets the job done if you need to fit in a quick workout during your stay.
If you’re more of a relaxer than a swimmer, you’ll want to head to the roof, where there are a number of lounging spaces. One downside is that the pool lockers seem impossible to secure. I had to leave my things in unlocked lockers – not the most relaxing.
What’s the area like around Mama Shelter?
The locality is a bit of a mixed bag. Surrounded by residential streets, which are a tad gritty and unassuming, it’s definitely not a touristy, postcard-perfect part of the city - but there’s an authenticity to it. West of Vatican City, the hotel is just a brief stroll from the Cipro Metro station, which connects you to all the Roman hotspots like the Colosseum and Spanish Steps in no time. As a part of Rome where Romans actually live, you’re close to Parco Monte Ciocci, a leafy park where locals meet and a brief hop from Mercato Trionfale, the largest open-air market in the city, ideal for picking up edible souvenirs.
Why you should book a stay at Mama Shelter
If you’re after a stay in a hotel that is stylish, fun, and different from many typical accommodation experiences in Rome, Mama Shelter is a good bet, with its vibrant interiors, cool atmosphere, and unique vibe. It’s a great base for exploring the city – well-connected, comfortable, and full of personality – and a comfortable spot to come back to after a day ticking off all the must see-sights.
The Rome branch is certainly a welcome addition to the Mama Shelter brand. Founded by Serge Trigano and his sons Jérémie and Benjamin in 2008, the group has been building its reputation as an ‘urban refuge’ for the best part of two decades. Mama Shelter Rome is exactly this - a laidback retreat from the often overwhelming city, with a real dose of Italian eccentricity.
DETAILS
Address: 20 Via Luigi Rizzo, Roma 00136
Price per night: From €130 for two, on a room-only basis
Closest transport: Rome Fiumicino Airport is a 30-minute drive
Book now: Click here
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