Some hotels are plain posh. Some are able to edge into the five star bracket due to their facilities mega-offering. The five star spots that truly stand out are those where excellent service is the priority – and that’s the case at Portrait Roma.
Part of the Ferragamo family’s Lugarno Collection, this property has just 14 rooms and relatively few amenities, but still manages to stand out from the crowd. In a city where luxury is often synonymous with grandeur, Portrait Roma offers a refreshingly intimate experience in Rome, embodying the timeless elegance that its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, built his legacy upon. I entered and staff refused to let me touch my bags. Instead they sat me down in the comfortable reception lounge, brought me a chilled sparkling water and offered a selection of macarons.
Why stay at Portrait Roma?
Like the Lugarno Collection’s other hotels, its interiors were created by Florentine designer Michele Bonan, and the result is a classic-yet-modern affair with subtle nods to Ferragamo’s history. Think framed sketches from the company’s archives in the hallways, Ferragamo’s quotes in the lift, and horsebit designs on the insides of each room’s curtains – inspired by the brand’s loafers.
Located on the achingly glamorous Via Bocca di Leone, Portrait Roma offers guests a real home-away-from-home experience right in the city centre (you’re literally minutes from the Spanish Steps) – an ideal base for sightseeing, shopping and all the rest of it.
What are the rooms like at Portrait Roma?
All the accommodation echoes the understated luxury the brand is known for and, even the smallest room on offer – the Portrait Studio – is spacious, at 355 square feet. Like all the other rooms and suites here, there’s a luxurious marble bathroom and kitchen area with hob, microwave, sink and proper coffee machine. I stayed in a junior suite which boasts a separate seating area with a dove grey sofa and chairs with light pink cushions, a colour scheme that continues into the bedroom, where you’ll find a wooden writing desk with rich leather accents. The bathroom, in white and grey marble , was packed with Ferragamo-branded toiletries, and every last detail was thoughtful and classy, right down to a silver cupboard which concealed the loo roll. On arrival, I was greeted with a handwritten note from the team welcoming me, alongside more macarons and an array of sweet treats. You’ll also find complimentary containers of Jelly Belly beans, chocolates, salty snacks and dried fruit.
My own private terrace, running the length of the suite and with views along the Via Condotti below and onto the Spanish Steps, made me feel like I was in a 1950s film. Many rooms have terraces, including the Penthouse Trinità dei Monti with a 215-square-metre balcony. When I returned from a little light shopping, everything perishable had been put into the fridge as part of the careful turn-down service. I was left a small bear wearing a Portrait-branded T-shirt (in other suites you might be given a perfume), as well as a selection of Wilden herbal teas, ranging from sleepy blends to hangover teas – an excellent touch. Bedsheets were folded back, pillows plumped and lights dimmed to a level where I simply couldn’t wait to sleep.
What is the food like at Portrait Roma?
There’s no restaurant but the hotel does boast a lovely rooftop breakfast room. Staff are eager to assist, and the buffet’s food and drink is top notch, with freshly baked pastries, fresh fruits, gourmet cheeses, pressed juices and genuinely exceptional coffee. Breakfast also featured the kind of extra touches I’d got used to expecting from Portrait Roma by now, like two kinds of butter on each table, tiny jars of preserves, and wedges of lime to squeeze on watermelon. My lovely waitress Margherita brought me a copy of the in-house ‘newspaper’, featuring the weather forecast and best things to do in Rome that week. The uber-posh à la carte menu, though, unfortunately comes with an extra charge – a crying shame at a pricey hotel like this. If you do want to fork out, it’s a classy affair, featuring omelettes with caviar, champagne breakfasts and the likes.
As the sun sets, the space transforms into an exclusive aperitivo spot, open only to guests and their family and friends. I sampled the best French 75 of my life along with a stack of snacks, from sugared nuts to traditional taralli crackers and pesto and tomato-topped breads. The real star was the barman, Alexis, who isn’t just a talented mixologist but had us all laughing. When a large gull (named Giuseppe, apparently), began to terrorise hotel guests, Alexis whipped out a water pistol and sent him flying. After cocktail hour, the concierge is very willing to help guests find the best dinner options nearby. He recommended us Nino, on Via Borgognona, for Tuscan fare, and Il Porto di Ripetta on Via di Ripetta, offering traditional pasta and seafood.
What’s the service like at Portrait Roma?
The service at Portrait Roma really is in a league of its own. Guests are treated with the utmost care and respect and staff members are keen to pass on their wealth of local knowledge, for dinner reservations, shopping tips and anything else you need help with. Ecem, part of the lifestyle team, was a standout, making sure I was happy and comfortable at all times without being intrusive, and giving me a discount card – a perk offered to all guests – to use at selected boutiques in the area, including at Ferragamo right below the hotel. Another staff member, Simone, stayed chatting with me while I waited for my taxi after I’d checked out.
What are the pools and facilities like at Portrait Roma?
Portrait’s only downfall? There’s no gym, spa or pool. The lifestyle team can arrange in-room massages, from deep tissue to lymphatic drainage options, though, and each room has a small, stylish set of weights, while the penthouse suite also has an exercise bike. If you can’t manage without a full set of fitness equipment, staff can recommend facilities nearby (or, like me, you can simply get your exercise in by pounding the historical pavements).
What’s the area like around Portrait Roma?
The location of Portrait Roma is, hands down, one of its biggest draws. Situated in the heart of Rome’s most stylish district, it’s a true shopper’s paradise, with the likes of Hermes and Celine seconds away and Italy’s largest Zara nearby, if you’re on a budget. For culture vultures, Villa Borghese’s park and museums are a short walk, while the Trevi Fountain and Pantheon – must-sees while in Rome – are within easy reach on foot. For spots across the wider city, both Spagna and Barberini metro stations are close by, and make exploring famous sights like the Colosseum and Forum a breeze.
Why you should book a stay at Portrait Roma
For those seeking an experience that combines the best of luxury, style, and truly personalised service, Portrait Roma really does offer a one-of-a-kind stay. I will remember the bespoke service, the timeless elegance of the Ferragamo-inspired design and the ridiculously central location for a long time to come. The vibe here is more like a chic, private home than a hotel – and it’s a perfect base to experience the Eternal City in all its glory.
DETAILS
Address: 23 Via Bocca di Leone, Rome 00187
Price: Rooms start from £710 per night, based on two adults sharing and including breakfast
Closest transport: Rome Fiumicino Airport is a 45-minute drive