December's things to do

Eulmildae boasts a 40-year tradition in Pyongyang-style naengmyeon. They have another branch in Gangnam, but Yeomri-dong is where it all started. The white paint is neat, though aged, and the furniture is distinctively retro. When it comes to Pyongyang-style naengmyeon, their variation is clean and light. The naengmyeon has thicker noodles and comes with the usual icy broth. Extra servings are 4,000 won but for the sizeable portions you’re getting, it’s quite the deal. Take note: the stewed brisket served on a bed of tossed chives is as much of a delicacy as the naengmyeon is.

If you didn't already love ciabatta bread, Buccella just might change your mind. Situated on a small alley off of Garosugil, this little place with a cheerful yellow façade always draws long lines. Owned by a Cordon Bleu-trained chef who spent years perfecting the "soft and chewy" recipe tailored to the Korean palate, this small restaurant soon managed to get funding from the food-loving owner of a leading conglomerate, resulting in the growth of several branches around the country. Sandwich fillings like chicken, smoked salmon, and cold ham may be plain but when coupled with the soft bread and their homemade sauce, it's something special. The smoked salmon with cream cheese sandwich is especially popular, and vegetarians will appreciate that the salad with its side of ciabatta is generously portioned and filling.

Would there be any other place in the city that's full of such happy looking adults? This “indoor fishing café” located in Daehangno is what you can imagine plus so much more liveliness and lighthearted fun. With the helpful and energetic staff, fishing becomes real entrainment here. At just 10,000 won, you get an hour of fishing, free snacks, coffee and soft drinks. Mind you, though—you might assume that you're not into fishing, but once you're here, several hours pass by pretty quickly. Opening daily until 2am, Father Carp Indoor Fishing Café qualifies as a nice (though unusual) night hangout spot in the city. Waiting for my lucky catch, even a can of Hite (3,000 won) somehow tastes better than I remember.