December's things to do

Following the availability of small American craft roasters including Intelligentsia and Stumptown Coffee Stumptown Coffee, we now have the Berlin-based artisan roaster Bonanza in Seoul. Even beyond Berlin, Bonanza Coffee is one of the fastest-growing roasters in Europe, with its original location selected by National Geographic as one of the “25 coffee shops around the world you have to see before you die.” This new international location is in Itaewon, but the surrounding area of Hangangjin (near Downtowner burger pub and Pizzeria D' Buzza’s Hannam Dong branch) is quite serene. Although the café is located inside novelty merchandise retailer Morethanless, its seriousness towards extractions has been attracting even professional baristas and humble home brewers alike. As I open its large glass doors and step inside, sturdy La Marzocco Linea machine first catches this aficionado’s eyes. A specialty coffee icon established in Florence, Italy, it grew with Starbucks’ early expansion, and since been an inspiration for most of the high-end espresso machine brands in the world including Synesso and Slayer. The overall atmosphere of the café is quite refined and modern (which is appropriate for its identity as a fashion retailer as well). The staff is kind and friendly, while the audio system involving a powerful amp and a fancy set of speakers are adding another tasteful element to the space. The star of the show is, of course, the coffee. The roasted beans selection available...

Upon seeing an elderly woman purchase a whole Ganache Earl Grey cake mentioning it was all for herself, we knew we had to try it. To our surprise, it wasn’t too sweet and all its flavors were so subtle we had to search for the ‘earl grey’ and ‘chocolate’ part — and this subtlety was what kept the forks going. The whipped cream (which was more milky than sweet), the thick chocolate ganache, the earl grey cream, bits of nuts and, finally, the crispy tart crust all come together to create a balance. Upon leaving, you might want to grab a few of their freshly-baked golden breads piled up in the center of the shop, as well. We think it’s safe to say that Chef CHO is doing something right, and the number of people filling up the pastry shop might be one evidence.

Walk past the Namyeong Station in Yongsan into a small alleyway and you’ll see a hanok (traditional Korean house)—or just look for a house that stands out from the rest. It is at this 100-year-old house that Gangwonjung set up shop to serve its signature samgye-tang all year-round. Founded in 1978, the restaurant is now owned by Ham Ho-sik, the son of the founder. The quality of the samgye-tang is definitely one of the main reasons the restaurant has stayed open for 39 years. The commitment of the restaurant can be felt in a single bowl: using domestic poultry that is more fully grown than other restaurants, the broth is boiled for up to two hours to create a rich flavor. Be sure you get your fill for lunch or dinner (there is a break between three and five o’clock in the afternoon).