Eat, drink and be merry: where to feast in Stockholm this Christmas

Christmas dining in Stockholm is about so much more than roasted ham and Janssons frestelse, the classic Swedish potato and anchovy gratin. 

This year, Leif Mannerström is returning to the kitchen where he started out at 16, Stockholm Central Station is getting a French seafood Christmas feast, and on Södermalm, the festive celebrations continue onto the dancefloor. Whether you’re a herring purist or prefer to head straight for the sweets, there’s a Christmas buffet or festive menu here for you. We’ve sifted through the city’s huge restaurant scene, picked out the very best and rounded up some of this year’s most exciting and memorable festive dining experiences.

One tip before you go: the best December sittings tend to get snapped up first, so book sooner rather than later.

Herring, kids’ discos and seafood platters: How Stockholm’s restaurants are doing Christmas this year: 

COUP D’ÉTAT, Östermalm

When herring starts to feel a little predictable, one of this year’s most unexpected Christmas buffets awaits on Engelbrektsgatan. Erik Videgård and Maryam Madaresi bring together traditional Swedish Christmas flavours with the spices, colours and aromas of Persian cuisine. Go for the more luxurious option if you fancy some caviar. Children are welcome on Sundays, but the restaurant is adults-only for the rest of the week.

Dates: November 1–December 23. Price: SEK 895, or SEK 1,095 with caviar. Address: Engelbrektsgatan 37. Book at coupdetat.se

Gamla Riksarkivet, Riddarholmen

The Christmas buffet at this old brick building on Riddarholmen is a big one, so pay attention when the staff share their five-round strategy. The most important rule? Save your final round for the sweet shop. If you’re bringing the kids, the early weekend sittings are a safe bet. There’s a Christmas film screening and crafts to keep them entertained while the grown-ups head back for another helping of herring.

Dates: November 6–December 25. Price: From SEK 995. Address: Birger Jarls Torg 2A. Book at gamlariksarkivet.com

Solliden, Skansen

The big news this year: Leif Mannerström is back in the kitchen where he learned to cure and pickle fish at the age of 16, exactly 70 years ago. Now he’s bringing Christmas traditions from across Sweden to Solliden’s newly renovated banqueting halls, with the evening ending in a dedicated dessert and sweet room overlooking the city. Arrive in good time. Admission to Skansen is included, so you can soak up the festive atmosphere with a wander around before dinner.

Dates: November 12–December 25. Price: SEK 795–1,295. Address: Skansen, Djurgården. Book at sollidenpaskansen.se

Ulriksdals Värdshus, Solna

This is the Christmas buffet Stockholmers return to year after year, and it’s easy to see why. Seven rounds of festive feasting at an inn in the palace park, starting with eleven types of herring and ending with around 30 sweet treats. Much of the fresh produce comes from the inn’s own garden. Choose Ulriksdal when you’re after a truly traditional Christmas, complete with white tablecloths and cosy inn charm.

Dates: November 17–December 24. Price: From SEK 1,095. Address: Ulriksdals Slottspark, Solna. Book at ulriksdalsvardshus.se

Biblioteket Live, Södermalm

This is the Christmas buffet that doesn’t end with coffee. The food is laid out among the bookshelves at Medborgarhuset, and mulled wine is included. On Fridays, the evening turns into Soul Train, while Saturdays bring a cocktail party. Bringing the kids? Book a family sitting with Barnens Julklubb, where little ones get a visit from Father Christmas and a kids’ disco while the grown-ups linger over the sweets in peace.

Dates: November 18–December 24. Price: SEK 595–1,295. Address: Medborgarhuset, Medborgarplatsen. Book at biblioteketlive.se

Gondolen, Slussen

Forget queuing at the buffet. At Gondolen, seven courses are brought straight to your table, 33 metres above Slussen, with views that do half the work. The menu is a luxurious take on the classics, featuring a tartlet with gubbröra (a traditional Swedish egg and anchovy mixture) and caviar, glazed Iberico pork chop and Ris à la Malta, a Swedish rice pudding dessert, with mandarin sorbet. The Christmas feast for anyone who likes an excuse to dress up.

Dates: November 19–December 26. Price: SEK 1,895, drinks package SEK 1,250. Address: Stadsgården 6. Book at gondolen.se

Café Klotet, Slussen

Not in the mood for seven courses? One floor above Gondolen, you’ll find the same views in a more relaxed setting. Klotet serves a set Christmas menu, with crispy pork belly, red cabbage and truffle gravy taking centre stage for everyone to share. A great choice for a group of friends, with a considerably friendlier price tag.

Dates: November 19–December 23. Price: SEK 795. Address: Urvädersgränd 15A. Book at cafeklotet.se

Trattorian, Kungsholmen

Trattorian gives the Christmas buffet an Italian twist: herring with Marsala and salmon cured with limoncello make way for prosciutto, truffle risotto, salsiccia and wood-fired salmon. Save room for tiramisu, panettone and gelato. With Lake Mälaren outside the windows and a dessert spread that keeps going long after the espresso, it’s perfect for groups who fancy a little more Mediterranean flair with their festive cheer.

Dates: November 19–December 27. Price: From SEK 495. Address: Norr Mälarstrand, berth 464. Book at trattorian.se

The Old Brewer, Vasastan & Södermalm

Christmas crackers on the table, pigs in blankets and plenty of gravy. It’s a proper British Christmas here, and the Beef Wellington is the best I’ve ever had. Dinner is pre-ordered as a two- or three-course meal, with a mushroom Wellington for anyone skipping the meat. Perfect when you’ve been eating herring for three weeks and fancy something different.

Dates: November 23–December 23, Monday–Saturday. Price: Two courses SEK 650, three courses SEK 750. Address: Luntmakargatan 98 and Långholmsgatan 3. Book at theoldbrewer.se

Bitza, Södermalm

Palestinian cuisine meets a lively atmosphere at this Södermalm bistro. Instead of a traditional buffet, there’s a Christmas menu featuring around ten smaller dishes packed with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours, all made for sharing. Expect labneh, fried feta and Arabic meatballs with festive spices.

Dates: From October onwards. Price: SEK 595 per person, minimum four people per booking. Book at bitza.se/julbord

Restaurang J, Nacka Strand

This is a Christmas evening that starts with a boat trip from Nybrokajen. Fire baskets welcome you at the quayside in Nacka Strand, while a log fire crackles inside the intimate dining room. The Christmas buffet is traditional and homemade, with herring, sausages, salmon and ham, but you can also pre-order lobster or oysters. It’s one of the city’s smaller Christmas buffets, so book early.

Dates: From November 23. Price: Lunch SEK 695, dinner SEK 1,195, Christmas Eve SEK 1,395. Address: Augustendalsvägen 52, Nacka Strand. Book at restaurangj.se

Lux Dag för Dag, Lilla Essingen

On Lilla Essingen, the classic Christmas buffet gets a little more woodland flavour, acidity and greenery. Herring with sea buckthorn and timut pepper sits alongside fallow deer from Sörmland, pickled chanterelles and freshly baked Janssons frestelse, the classic Swedish potato and anchovy gratin. The vegetable dishes are just as thoughtfully prepared, and a fully vegan three-course menu is available to pre-order. Start with Lux’s apple glögg, made with apples from Enskededalen.

Dates: November 25–December 22. Price: From SEK 650. Address: Primusgatan 116. Book at luxdagfordag.se

Luzette, Centralstationen

Give the herring a rest. At Luzette, Christmas comes with a French twist and seafood takes centre stage. The five-course menu includes scallops with vendace roe, a seafood platter piled with crayfish and crab claws, and turbot with truffle. A clever stop before catching the train home for Christmas, or whenever you fancy some festive cheer without the Christmas buffet food coma.

Dates: November 26–December 23. Price: SEK 995. Address: Centralplan 25. Book at luzette.se