The best of Sandhamn: Jet-set jewel of the Stockholm archipelago

What is it? The stately red hotel is Sandhamn’s most iconic landmark and has been the pride of the archipelago since King Oscar II inaugurated it in 1897, when it served as the clubhouse of the Royal Swedish Yacht Club (KSSS). Today, it’s home to hotel rooms, a classic restaurant and one of the archipelago’s best-known nightclubs.

Why visit? To experience Swedish sailing history with a modern twist. Seglarn is the natural hub of the harbour, where everyone from millennials to people in their 60s parties into the small hours once the winds have died down and the DJ has taken to the booth. Expect a lively atmosphere, grand architecture and plenty of people around at all hours of the day. Sandhamns Seglarhotell is equal parts historic tradition and entertainment hotspot.

Time Out-tips: The stracciatella starter. If it’s on the menu when you’re here, it comes highly recommended.

Music is played on the terrace and in Seglarbaren every day of the week, with a DJ at weekends too.

What is it? A family-run restaurant in a central harbour location, serving the island’s best-cooked food.

Why we love it? The grey 1920s building was home to diving courses in the ’80s, but for the past three decades its waterfront terrace has fed and brought together islanders and summer visitors alike, today with the second generation at the helm. There are only a handful of tables inside and out, so demand is high and they fill up fast. The menu at Dykarbaren is compact but well put together: three to four mains (very often a fish dish, a meat dish, a veggie option and the obligatory house burger) are joined by a selection of inventive snacks and starters, plus a playful dessert. The kitchen moves seamlessly between classic Swedish home cooking and crossover cuisine, with unexpected flavours like gooseberry, marigold and wasabi oil. There’s free rein when it comes to the weekly lunch: one week it’s smørrebrød, the next bánh mì or crispy tonkatsu.

Time Out-tips: The bar shakes up fantastic cocktails. And come hungry, you’ll want to order the entire snack menu before your main arrives.

Mains SEK 250-380. Open daily from 11:00 until late during high season, usually until mid-September, then on selected weekends. Check the website for up-to-date opening hours.

What is it? Sandhamn’s best beach by far. Trouville is on the southeastern side of the island, with soft white sand and open sea.

Why visit? If you’re only here for the day, you could easily follow the little path next to the bakery down to the small Fläskberget swimming spot, past idyllic villas and wild roses. But the best beach is on the other side of the island. Head towards the tennis court and follow the gravel road through the pine forest and you’ll be there in 20 minutes. That’s where the forest opens up and the sand dunes await.

Time Out-tips: There are no kiosks or places to eat on this side of the island, so pack a picnic from Westerbergs grocery store or pick up a wrap from Café Ankaret. With a bit of luck, Ludde will also have set up his popular cake stand by the tennis courts along the way, meaning your fika is sorted.

What is it? The island’s largest hotel, with more than 80 rooms ranging from cosy standard rooms to spacious suites, many with their own balcony or terrace overlooking the harbour. For the past few years, you’ve also been able to stay in the red sea villas right on the waterfront, with access to a private pool.

Why visit? Because you’ll miss half the experience if you catch the last ferry home. The hotel is where the island comes together as evening falls, the atmosphere ramps up and the party gets going. The biggest luxury yachts are moored directly in front of the hotel, and your balcony or terrace gives you the best possible vantage point. A big part of the fun is sitting back, watching the boats come and go and guessing which Hollywood celebrity or international high-flyer has stepped ashore this year. When you want to wind down, simply head to the spa for a dip in the pool. And don’t miss the chance to wake up early and watch the harbour slowly come to life.

Time Out-tips: While summer is the obvious highlight, ‘Seglarn’ is also ideal for a cosy autumn or winter staycation. Keep an eye on the hotel’s food calendar and time your visit to coincide with one of its popular themed events, such as the New Year’s Eve party, turkey dinner or annual surströmming premiere.

Sandhamns Seglarhotell is open year-round. Standard rooms around SEK 4,500 during high season, sea villas around SEK 10,000 per night.

What is it? If ‘Seglarn’ is the place to party, ‘Värsan’ (or ‘Gästis’, as the older generation calls it) is the obvious living room. The restaurant dates back to the seventeenth century and has three different dining areas, including an outdoor terrace with perhaps the best evening sun on the island and an old pub that is the very definition of maritime charm.

Why visit? To experience a true archipelago favourite, loved by many islanders, where the table at the far end of the bar always seems to be occupied by a bunch of old sea dogs tucking into the lunch special or fried Baltic herring. The large outdoor terrace is the islanders’ go-to spot for drinks in the evening sun, and you can usually order salads, fun cocktails and burgers here too. If you’re after something a little more lavish and lively, head next door to Pentaboden for bubbles, lobster and overflowing seafood platters.

Time Out-tips: Few things are cosier than settling into the warmth of the pub at one of the worn wooden tables, lit by candles, when the place is half-empty and everyone else is at the bar at Seglarn. Pull on your comfiest chunky-knit jumper and round off the evening with a glass of dark rum or a Calvados alongside Mother Karin’s caramel tart.

The restaurant is open daily during high season (May to mid-September), while the pub is open year-round. Mains cost around SEK 250-350.

What is it? Sure, watching the sunset from the terrace of one of Sandhamn’s restaurants is pretty special, but experiencing it closer to nature from a picnic blanket is even better. Some of the best spots are the bunker at Trouville, Fläskberget near the harbour or Västerudden, whose west-facing location is perfect for catching the last rays of the day.

Why visit? Because it’s pure summer euphoria and a wonderful way to end the day. With a bit of luck, you’ll find a more secluded rocky spot. You might even have time for a dip as the sky changes colour and the stars come out.

Time Out-tips: There’s no Systembolaget (tthe government-owned alcohol retail chain) on the island, so if you want to toast the sunset with something stronger than lemonade, you’ll need to buy it on the mainland beforehand.

What is it? Tennis and sailing have always gone hand in hand in the archipelago, and on Sandhamn you’ll find both classic tennis courts and newer padel courts.

Why visit? If Seglarhotellet is the natural hub of the harbour, the tennis courts are the island’s social heart, tucked away in the pine forest. Tournaments take place here regularly, and you don’t need to book a court yourself to enjoy the atmosphere. Grab a coffee from the ice cream bar and take a seat on the narrow wooden benches along the fence with the other summer visitors to cheer on the players and follow the drama unfolding across the net. As well as the two hard courts in the middle of the island, there’s also a padel court outside the hotel.

Time Out-tips: The courts are extremely popular at the height of summer. If you want to play yourself, make sure you book a slot in advance.

For tennis, see sandhamnstennis.se. Or book the padel court, which costs around SEK 500 per hour. For the padel court, rackets are available to borrow.

What is it? In the little red cottage on the hill above the harbour, you’ll find Sandhamns Bageri & Konditori, where the smell of freshly baked treats leads the way along the gravel paths.

Why visit? Raisins in buns, well, opinions are divided. But tradition is tradition! The island’s iconic seglarbulle (sailor bun) is a soft, juicy bun topped with pearl sugar that has fed hungry sailors for generations, and has even found its way into the world of fine dining at Michelin-starred restaurant Adam/Albin. If you’re not ‘team raisin’, don’t despair: those rustling paper bags can just as easily be filled with lovely raspberry jam biscuits, moreish chocolate creations and classic sugar pretzels.

Time Out-tips: Watch out for the local house sparrows, they’ve developed a taste for freshly baked treats.

What is it? This far out, the Baltic Sea is often more refreshing than warm. So having a steaming sauna right by the water is the ultimate archipelago luxury.

Why visit? Seglarhotellet rents out classic sauna rafts just off the main island, but our hottest tip is to head over to the petrol station instead and hire the raft tucked away in a secluded bay on the neighbouring island of Lökholmen. Because what captures a Swedish summer better than the invigorating contrast between 18°C water and a piping-hot sauna?

Time Out-tips: Book a session that stretches across sunset. Jumping straight into the glassy water with your eyes on the horizon, then heading back in to throw more water on the sauna heater, is pure bliss.

A two-hour session for up to six people costs around SEK 2,500.

What is it? Sandhamn isn’t known as the sailing capital of the archipelago for nothing, but you don’t need your own sailing boat or a million-krona budget to catch the wind. On the eastern side of the island, you’ll find Sandhamns Surfcenter, run by none other than Adam Holm, a two-time world champion in the sport.

Why visit? Standing on a board and harnessing the wind is a fantastic way to experience the sea from a new perspective.

Time Out-tips: If you want to take things up a notch, you can hire a wingfoil, where the board hovers above the surface of the water. You can also hire a SUP for a more leisurely outing.

SUP hire from SEK 150, windsurfing lessons from around SEK 1,500. Check the website to book and see when Adam or one of his instructors is there.