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Apéro Aoyama Winebar & Table is a pioneer of Tokyo’s natural wine bar scene and a long-time haunt for those seeking French apéro culture in the capital. Its closure a year ago was thus much lamented, but founder Guillaume Dupérier wasn’t about to give up – he was just preparing to come back stronger.
Apéro made its official comeback on December 13, reimagined as a refined space where speciality wines and thoughtfully crafted organic dishes invite guests on a ‘journey of taste’.
The new location in Minami Aoyama is just a quick hop away from the previous one and features a beautiful minimalist interior in which natural materials are used to express the terroir of the wine on offer. The space feels intimate and unhurried, with soft washi paper lamps and floral arrangements adding a touch of Japanese charm to the French aesthetics.
Since opening his bar in 2014, Dupérier has prioritised creating a space where guests can experience France’s ‘apéro culture’ – enjoying drinks and small bites while chatting before dinner. He has travelled extensively throughout his native France to source wines from producers he knows personally, and across Japan to gather organic ingredients for his dishes.
Over its previous 10-year run, the bar attracted attention from local wine lovers as a place to experience a slice of Paris in Tokyo. Following the renovation, Apéro has retained its fundamental concept while evolving into a more refined venue built around the theme of a ‘journey of taste’.
‘We aim to appeal to a mature clientele, offering learning through food and wine within a heartfelt yet sophisticated environment,’ says Dupérier.
Across the selection of over 300 carefully handpicked wines (from ¥1,500 per glass, or ¥7,000 per bottle), the focus is on organic producers. Sommeliers suggest wines and pairings to suit each guest’s palate while sharing the story behind each bottle.
Chef Timothée Barthélémy, a veteran of the Michelin-starred restaurant La Rémanence in Lyon, sources the highest-quality ingredients from across Japan, creating menus that carry the stories of farmers and artisans.
For example, the ‘Dorade, harissa de betteraves, fromage maison’ combines Hokkaido sea bream seared until the skin is fragrant with beetroot harissa, herb oil, brown rice and a sake lees koji sauce. The harissa, made using organic beets from Yokosuka, has just the right balance of acidity and sweetness to bring out the sea bream’s umami.
This dish pairs well with the clean, sharp Uovo Riesling 2021 from Australian winemaker Larry Cherubino. Its minerality makes it an ideal match for fish.
The menu changes daily depending on what seasonal, domestically grown organic ingredients are available, but every dish reflects Chef Barthélémy’s thorough exploration of and playful approach to Japanese produce. Beginning with vegetables – his speciality – the menu draws out the energy of each ingredient, delivering depth of flavour with every bite.
‘My main goal is to showcase the producers we source our ingredients from,’ says Dupérier. ‘I’d be happy if people were to discover the joy of understanding the background of the ingredients and wines they enjoy every day.’
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