Life, death and bar-hopping in Kabukicho

See Tokyo’s most notorious nightlife district in a different light with these insider tours, ranging from the soulful to the sinister
Shinjuku Kabukicho
Photo: Gheorghi Bruno Viktorov Pentchev/Dreamstime | Kabukicho at night
Written by Time Out. In association with Smappa!Group
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Even if you’ve never been to Tokyo, chances are you have a mental image of Kabukicho. As depicted in shows like Tokyo Vice, the neon-lit Shinjuku district is the ultimate symbol for the city’s sinful side.

But while Kabukicho undeniably has a high concentration of gangsters and grime, it’s also a captivating, vibrant neighbourhood full of hospitable people and welcoming nooks where even first-time visitors can feel part of the local community.

If you’re new in town, the soulful side of the area is best explored in the company of an insider guide. And who better to show you around than the local experts at Kabukicho Concierge, a custom tour service backed up by the Smappa!Group, which runs an array of bars, clubs and other businesses in the neighbourhood.

Want to sip fine wine under glittering chandeliers while enjoying some distinctly Japanese hospitality? Book a host club experience. Prefer to explore the miniature watering holes at Golden Gai? They have a bar-hopping tour just for you. And if you’re in the mood for something morbid, opt for the ‘macabre tour’, a guided stroll around some of Kabukicho’s creepiest crime scenes.

Mugi no Oto
Photo: SuppliedMugi no Oto

Each tour begins at Mugi no Oto, a sleek basement bar and restaurant just around the corner from the Toho building and the Godzilla head. Here you can sip on craft beer and nibble on vegan eats from marinated and grilled greens to pasta while your guide quizzes you on specific things you’d like to learn or experience during the evening.

Here’s what to expect on three of the most popular tours.

One of the best things about Kabukicho is the remarkable range of boozy experiences available in the neighbourhood. And while we aren’t averse to drinking plonk at a dive bar, sometimes you want to feel a good bit fancier – and that’s exactly what this tour accomplishes.

A dashing crew of (mostly) bilingual charmers will welcome you at Smappa! Hans Axel Von Fersen, a luxurious host club named after an intimate friend of Marie Antoinette’s. As you take in the OTT décor – think red velvet sofas, chandeliers and gilded sculptures – a sommelier serves up a carefully curated selection of fine wines.

But the evening’s main course is conversation: the hosts are great fun to chat with and love to recommend other bars and eateries nearby, making ‘Fersen’ the ideal starting point for a movable party – a hop from one watering hole to the next that builds up energy along the way.

Book the tour now via Viator

One for true crime fans, this stroll shines a light on the Kabukicho sites where something tragic once happened. And as you will discover, there are plenty of those.

You’ll learn all the sordid details of crimes like the karaoke shooting of 2019, when Masaru Abe, a former member of the Sumiyoshi-kai yakuza syndicate, capped a fellow ex-gangster in an upper-floor room at the Karaoke Kan right next to the Toho building; and the string of unsolved love hotel murders that shook the neighbourhood in 1981.

While having specific crime scenes pointed out to you is interesting as such, perhaps the most valuable part of the experience is all the legal and societal insight your expert guide can provide – from the nitty-gritty of Japanese policing to the honour codes of the underworld.

Do note that this tour isn’t for the faint of heart; some of the stories told are seriously heart-rending.

Book the tour now via Get Your Guide

If you’re looking to drink like a local, look no further than this bar crawl through the narrow alleyways of Golden Gai. The area is home to some 280 tiny boozers, and you get to pick your poison from some of the coolest of the bunch.

For Japanese whisky and jovial conversation in English, make a beeline for Zeami. Prefer something warming with your tipple? Park yourself at Miso Soup, where all orders come with unlimited servings of the eponymous staple.

Then you might climb the ultra-narrow staircase up to Red. and sip a mixture of coffee and shochu on the semi-alfresco terrace, or pair a glass of wine with cutting-edge art at Decameron before finishing off with a snack at Ningen Restaurant.

Book the tour now via Viator

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