A long-running home of Sichuan cuisine, Ryu No Ko first opened its doors in 1977 close to the entrance to Harajuku's Takeshita-dori. Owner-chef Tetsuji Yasukawa studied under the late Chen Kenmin, known as the father of Sichuan cuisine in Japan, and serves up one mean mapo (¥1,700). Go during lunch time for a very affordable meal (prices start from ¥945).
By Takeshi Tojo
Mapo dofu, that most characteristic of Sichuan-style dishes, gets its fiery reputation from the unique punch that comes from the melding of two elements: the 'ma' (numbing flavour) of Sichuan pepper, and the 'la' (spiciness) of the pepper-and-bean chili paste. Although this sweat-inducing combo is reportedly loved in southwestern China primarily as a means of combatting the hot-and-humid climate, the tasty dish is also great for preventing the cold of winter from invading your insides. As the winter freeze grips Tokyo, we've rounded up ten shops in and around the city that provide top-class mapo dofu for your enjoyment. Beginners be warned, however – most of these eateries aren't big on toning down the peppers.
