If the art supplies store Michael’s and a drag dressing room had a child, it would look like Okadaya. This is where serious costume people go. It’s the kind of place you enter with one idea and leave with six wigs, vampire fangs and a prosthetic scar you didn’t know you needed. The basement floors are lined with fabrics, boas, sequins, coloured contacts and everything you could glue to your body. There’s even a section for realistic mustaches and beards. It’s a chaotic heaven for people who celebrate Halloween like Christmas.
Halloween in Tokyo has come a long way from its cute, imported origins. What began as a marketing stunt at Harajuku’s Kiddy Land and then became an excuse for themed lessons and candy in Eikaiwa classrooms has evolved into an all-night costume arms race. Following the trick-or-treat to thirst-trap pipeline, Halloween in Japan is now, like everywhere else, the kind of day where someone’s glued a latex horn to their forehead and another’s wearing a ¥200,000 catsuit – albeit for the runways of Shibuya Crossing.
Some make theirs from scratch, others rely on Daiso, but you can count on every look being a mix of hilarious, horny and weirdly professional. This is, after all, one of the world’s cosplay capitals. Tokyo does Halloween like it does everything else: with too much detail, a bit of fetish, and a sense of hum
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