UNIVERSOUNDS
Photo: Keisuke Tanigawa
Photo: Keisuke Tanigawa

Japan beyond the algorithm: Tangible treasures

Exploring the places sustaining Japan’s love for physical records and print

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Put your phone down; it’s time to get physical. Japan may sometimes get mocked for sticking with seemingly obsolete technology like faxes, CDs and personal stamps, but in our era of AI slop and questionably calibrated algorithms, there’s plenty to appreciate about the country’s dedication to the analogue, tactile and authentic.

Here we invite you to ditch the digital and explore offline Japan; its immersive vinyl bars, vibrant zine scene, historic paper products, and a make-believe post office on a remote island in the Seto Inland Sea.

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Vinyl destination

Japan’s thriving ecosystem of record stores is an object of international wonder and longing. DJs, diggers and casual music fans alike travel from around the globe to shop their way through the country’s countless repositories of analogue treasures, and often return home with suitcases filled to bursting with finds.

But the country’s love for vinyl goes beyond retail. What was once the only operating record factory in Asia keeps humming in Yokohama. Listening bars from Tokyo to Tokushima boast vast music collections and sound systems tuned to pin-drop perfection. And a sprawling community of aficionados keeps the scene fresh and honest. Japan’s record culture deserves to be explored in depth; here are three places to start.

  • Osaka

Inc & Sons

This spacious Osaka listening bar only opened in 2016, but the auditory world that awaits inside comes straight from the 1950s and ’60s. Vintage Altec A7 speakers play classic jazz and reggae at a pleasant, conversation-friendly volume, inviting you to put down your phone and take in the tunes while sipping the bar’s signature Wagyu Old Fashioned cocktail or nibbling on some oysters. Take your time to really engage with the music; this is a space that rewards patient listeners handsomely.

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  • Music
  • Kawasaki

Toyo Kasei

In the late 2000s, Toyo Kasei’s Suehiro factory in coastal Yokohama was the only active record pressing plant in Asia. In the face of calls to withdraw from the business, the company’s founder held firm – and was soon vindicated when quality-conscious music enthusiasts the world over started flocking back to physical media.

Famed for its borderline obsessive quality assurance process, Toyo Kasei is a trusted name especially in Southeast Asia, where demand is high for made-in-Japan vinyl. The company is also noted for its rare ability to conduct the entire record-production process in house, from cutting and pressing to printing custom labels. Keep an eye out for irregular open-door events and record markets.

  • Music
  • Koenji

Universounds

Yusuke Ogawa is no ordinary record dealer. When he’s not busy sourcing obscure spiritual or free jazz pressings or organising the neat shelves of his store into alphabetical order, the Koenji-based scene impresario writes guides to specific times or styles of jazz or supervises the reprinting of rare releases.

‘Secondhand records in Japan tend to be in really good condition compared to many other countries,’ he says. ‘Maybe it’s because vinyl collectors here handle the product with great care.’ Digging at Universounds can open up doors to new worlds even for seasoned aficionados. ‘I still often get surprised,’ Ogawa says. ‘Even some seriously obscure jazz records have Japan-exclusive releases.’

Paper paradise

When’s the last time you sat down to write, draw or print something on paper? If you live in Japan, maybe it wasn’t that long ago. While digitisation increasingly drives physical media to the periphery elsewhere around the world, this country’s love affair with print endures. Whether you prefer writing a letter on paper with 1,400 years of history, making your own Risograph-printed zine or whiling away the hours at a community bookstore, here’s a few options for becoming a card-carrying member of Japan’s paper party.

  • Things to do
  • Harajuku

Copy Corner

A tiny corner of the third floor at Tokyu Plaza Harajuku Harakado is dedicated to the art and craft of Risograph printing – a Japan-born technique combining silkscreen, photocopying and lithography, and cherished today especially by zinemakers and artists. Here you can take the first steps towards creating your own ‘Riso art’ by signing up for a Risograph workshop (advance reservation required). A great one for getting started is Hard Copy Club, a class that offers the opportunity to Riso-print phone photos, lending them a distinctively retro vibe.

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Neutral Colors

This publisher and magazine run by travel and culture mag Transit’s former editor-in-chief Naonori Kato is a true one-stop shop. Neutral Colors prints, binds and distributes all its products independently – and its proprietary printing method, a combination of offset and Risograph techniques, results in some of the prettiest physical mags out there.

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The Missing Post Office

The star-shaped Awashima Island in the Seto Inland Sea is home to a mysterious post office open only for three hours per week. Between 1pm and 4pm on Saturdays, the Missing Post Office accepts unaddressed postcards – and welcomes anyone interested in reading the anonymous messages left by past visitors.

Kamisoe

Want to leave an impression with a handwritten letter or note? Scribble your message on some decorative karakami paper, imported from China in the eighth century and used by ancient nobles for poetry, painting and calligraphy. This studio and shop in Kyoto carries a selection of convenient notepaper and card sets made from the still-fancy stuff.

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