December 2018 events in Tokyo

This solo exhibition follows Tsuyoshi Tane, an architect who works in Paris at DGT, a firm which he co-founded with Dan Dorell and Lina Ghotmeh. He rose to fame when DGT won the international competition to design the new Estonian National Museum which opened in 2016. Tane is also known for his collaborations with those outside of the architecture world, including conductor Seiji Ozawa. This time, his works will be displayed in two different exhibitions. Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery will play host to ‘Digging & Building’, a set of large-scale installations, while at the architecture-focused TOTOGallery Ma, visitors can follow Tane’s ‘archaeological research’ methodology.

This festival begins as autumn turns the surrounding icho (ginkgo) leaves yellow. Adding to the event’s popularity are temporary stalls selling noted products from different regions of Japan – the food and drink stalls will be set up around the Jingu Gaien softball stadium and training grounds.

Held every autumn since 2011, Yokohama's Smart Illumination show makes use of the latest in energy-efficient lighting technology to turn the city's waterfront areas into a sea of colour. Workshops and interactive installations complete the lineup, so make sure to head south to Yokohama in late autumn and see this spectacle light up the evening. Note that although the main festival takes place from October 31 to November 4, the illuminations will remain in place until December 31.

The Peninsula Tokyo’s signature restaurant Peter is hosting four award-winning chefs for a special culinary series. These chefs come from acclaimed restaurants, which are amongst the toughest reservations to score in the city. They will be partnering with Peter’s chef de cuisine Masateru Kiriyama to create special lunch and dinner menus over four weekends starting in August. First up is chef Masayoshi Nishikawa from the two Michelin-starred Gion Nishikawa in Kyoto (Aug 31-Sep 1). He will be showcasing the sublime art of kaiseki haute cuisine while featuring Japan’s local and seasonal produce. Plus, you can expect a meal which engages all your senses. Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa takes over on Sep 28 and 29; he’s the chef-owner of two Michelin-starred Den in Tokyo, a restaurant which is also ranked No. 2 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list for 2018. He will be serving a modern and creative take on kaiseki cuisine. Over the Oct 26 and 27 weekend, you can look forward to Chef Yoshiaki Takazawa’s complex and imaginative French-Japanese fashion dishes. His namesake restaurant in Tokyo has been named one of US Food & Wine Magazine’s World’s Top 10 Life-Changing Restaurants. The final installment, on Nov 30 and Dec 1, will be hosted by Chef Hiroyasu Kawate from Florilège in Tokyo. His restaurant has earned two Michelin stars as well as the No. 3 spot on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018 list. Expect locally-sourced Japanese produce and ingredients interpreted through classic French tech

Around 700 stalls line the street during the annual Setagaya Boroichi, a venerable flea market that's been going on for more than 430 years now. Held twice a year – on December 15-16, and again on January 15-16 – the event attracts tens of thousands of visitors, making it one of the highlights on Setagaya's yearly calendar. The main area of the market is along Boroichi-dori, a street which centres on the Setagaya Daikan Yashiki, the old, thatched-roof local magistrate’s residence. We’d recommend hopping off the train at Setagaya Station on the Setagaya Line, walking along Boroichi-dori, and then leaving from Kamimachi Station. The Setagaya Line is a light railway, and tickets are bought either when you get on the train or as you enter the platform, so you’ll have a smoother trip if you get the fare ready beforehand (¥150 for adults, ¥80 for children). And if you don't mind the long lines, it's worth sampling one of the market's popular daikan mochi rice cakes – the Boroichi's de facto official food.

This solo exhibition follows Tsuyoshi Tane, an architect who works in Paris at DGT, a firm which he co-founded with Dan Dorell and Lina Ghotmeh. He rose to fame when DGT won the international competition to design the new Estonian National Museum which opened in 2016. Tane is also known for his collaborations with those outside of the architecture world, including conductor Seiji Ozawa. This time, his works will be displayed in two different exhibitions. Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery will play host to ‘Digging & Building’, a set of large-scale installations, while at the architecture-focused TOTOGallery Ma, visitors can follow Tane’s ‘archaeological research’ methodology.

This festival begins as autumn turns the surrounding icho (ginkgo) leaves yellow. Adding to the event’s popularity are temporary stalls selling noted products from different regions of Japan – the food and drink stalls will be set up around the Jingu Gaien softball stadium and training grounds.

Rikugien's annual light-up returns again for when the park's trees turn red and golden in the autumn night. The view reflects beautifully off the water, creating a magical and unforgettable atmosphere. The park stays open until 9pm for the duration of the event, the cosy teahouses are open throughout, and you can catch guided tours of the park at 11am and 2pm daily.

This annual event sees local residents dress up as foxes and parade from Shozoku Shrine to nearby Oji Inari Shrine for the first prayer of the year (hatsumode). Having also served as the theme for one of ukiyo-e master Ando Hiroshige's pieces, the Fox Parade always gathers a respectable turnout of both participants and onlookers - and there are tasty snacks and drinks available too.

The New Year tradition of playing hanetsuki – a badminton-esque game popular among girls during the Edo era – may have all but died out, but that hasn't stopped the wooden paddles used in the sport (known as hagoita) from selling by the bucketload every year. Of course, the decorative pieces sold during the Hagoita-ichi, depicting everything from kabuki actors and sumo wrestlers to contemporary singers and anime characters, are intended to be used as ornaments and lucky charms rather than to hit shuttlecocks. The three-day fair attracts 300,000 people every year and is still a hotbed of Edo tradition, including the curious custom that sees shopkeepers and shoppers clap in unison when another paddle is sold.

Carmen, composed by Georges Bizet, is a classic opera that has been staged all across the world. It follows the story of gypsy Carmen and her antics around Seville, where she is propositioned by as well as seduces a variety of men. That includes Don José, who pursues her but is turned down over another man by the free-spirited Carmen; José, not taking things lightly, eventually stabs Carmen to death in a dramatic finale. This production has a rather international cast, with Sicilian, American, Russian and Japanese opera singers and dancers playing the parts. While watching, you’re bound to recognise the ‘Habarena’, sung in the first act – it’s one of the most well-known arias out there. Photo: Masahiko Terashi

One of the few comedic operas composed by Giuseppe Verdi, Falstaff is based on William Shakespeare’s works, including ‘The Merry Wives of Windsor’ and parts of ‘Henry IV’. Sir John Falstaff, a bumbling knight, is the protagonist, with the story following his pursuit of the two merry – and very much married – wives, in the hope of bagging their wealthy husband’s fortune down the line. Unlike many other operas, which can feel heavy at times, this comedy is light and leaves more than enough room to crack a smile. It will be performed by a cast of Italian and Japanese singers. Photo: Masahiko Terashi

With music by Tchaikovsky, the ballet of The Nutcracker and the Mouse King is a family-friendly classic. It was adapted from E.T.A. Hoffmann’s ‘The Nutcracker and the Mouse King’, which follows the story of a girl whose Christmas gift, a nutcracker doll, suddenly springs to life. The Nutcracker goes on to fight a battle with the Mouse King, and eventually brings the girl into a world where dolls are alive. The ballet is a popular number around Christmas time, and is perfect for the festive season. This version is performed by the National Ballet of Japan and showcases the dancers’ best moves. Photo: Takashi Shikama