On the trail of Japan’s most renowned samurai warriors

Zuihoden is the mausoleum of Date Masamune (1567-1636), one of the most powerful feudal lords of the Edo period. Also known as the ‘One-eyed Dragon’, due to the loss of his right eye, he ruled over the Sendai Domain and was the founder of the contemporary city of Sendai. He was much feared in his days, yet he was very educated and interested in the arts. Besides developing the area and expanding trade opportunities, Masamune invited foreigners to make use of their knowledge and technical skills.

As a valuable ally of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Masamune’s mausoleum follows in the same style as Tokugawa’s – a beautiful structure embellished with magnificent gold details, vibrant colours and detailed woodwork. It is a typical architectural construction of the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568–1600).

Set amid lush greenery, the current Zuihoden and its surroundings are a faithful reproduction of the original structures that dates back to the 17th century, which were destroyed during World War II. The main building displays private belongings of the Date clan, including bones and hair, as well as ancient lacquer boxes, combs and weapons.

Under Masamune’s order, the construction for Sendai Castle started in 1600, on top of Mt Aoba, at a height of 130m. The castle used to be the home base of the Date clan throughout the Edo period. Due to major fire outbreaks, earthquakes and World War II bombing, the once splendid castle is now left with its outer stone wall and a guard tower.

Nevertheless, the castle grounds afford a spectacular view of Sendai. The site’s large equestrian monument of Date Masamune, dressed in black armour with his golden, crescent moon-bearing helmet, overlooks the whole area, and is one of the most visited landmarks in Sendai.

As soon as you head down the northern slope of Mt Aoba, you will reach the Sendai City Museum. The museum boasts an impressive collection of about 97,000 artefacts pertaining to the history, culture and art of the Sendai Domain.

Marvel at numerous relics from the Date clan, such as Masamune’s suit of armour, and several items collected from Hasekura Tsunenaga’s diplomatic mission to Europe under Masamune’s command. This collection is a National Treasure of Japan and part of it was declared as one of Unesco’s ‘Memory of the World’.

Osaki Hachimangu was built between 1604 and 1607 by the most renowned craftsmen of the time, under the order of Date Masamune. Enshrining Hachiman, the tutelary god of warriors, this shrine features a gongen-zukuri construction, where the worship hall in the front and the main sanctuary in the back are connected by a room called ishinoma. The shrine’s black lacquer finishing, the bright coloured roof carvings, as well as the many gold leaf details are breathtaking, thus earning its place as one of Japan’s National Treasures.

As soon as you pass the towering vermilion gate flanked by two large stone lanterns, and stroll along the wide stone path lined by cedar trees, you’ll notice the majestic vibe of the powerful Date clan, taking you back to more than 400 years in history.