Historical highlights of Tokyo and Fukushima

Visitor’s guide to Tokyo and Tohoku: historical castles and heritage villages

Time Out in association with Tokyo Convention & Visitors BureauWednesday 14 November 2018

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Japan is well-known as one of the world's most technologically advanced and futuristic places, but the country's long and illustrious history is vividly present right beneath this glossy digital surface.

The south-central region of Japan is known for the country’s traditional high culture, such as intricate and beautiful court rituals. However, eastern Japan – which encompasses the Tohoku region and the Kanto region including and north of Tokyo – is the ideal destination for anyone interested in the bustling urban life of the Edo period (1603-1868) and the dramatic transformation of the nation through the Meiji Restoration of 1868, when feudal life gave way to centralised government and turbulent modernisation.

Here we showcase to a few stops in Tokyo and Fukushima Prefecture that are worth adding to any history-focused itinerary and can be visited in the space of an extended weekend.

Also see: The complete guide to Tokyo and Tohoku

Fukushima

Tsuruga Castle

An essential part of any trip to Fukushima is Tsuruga Castle in Aizu-Wakamatsu City, built in 1384, demolished in 1874 and reconstructed in 1965. The very Instagrammable castle keep-which stands 36-metre tall, functions as a lookout and museum. On your way up, you can explore the history of the feudal lords who ruled Aizu, see weapons produced by local craftsmen and learn the fascinating story of the Byakkotai (white tiger force), a group of 20 teenage samurai who chose to take their own lives on a nearby hill during the Boshin War in 1868, believing, wrongly, that the castle’s defences had been breached.

The Battle of Aizu was one of the key engagements in the aforementioned conflict, which pitted the new imperial government's forces against the defenders of warrior rule, and the fate of these young samurai remains a central element of local lore. The castle grounds also include a traditional teahouse, where you can enjoy a cup of matcha and some wagashi (Japanese sweets) for ¥600.

Aizu Sazaedo

Visible from the lookout platform on the top floor of Tsuruga Castle is Mt Iimori, the very hill where the Byakkotai met their fate. In addition to their graves, still tended to by both locals and history buffs visiting from further afield, this solemn spot is home to Sazaedo, a hexagon-shaped temple constructed entirely of wood, built in 1796. A structure echoing its mind-bending shape is said to have been attempted – unsuccessfully – by Da Vinci himself.

Pay ¥400 at the stall outside to enter the winding passageway, which takes you to the top of the structure and all the way back down again – without the two directions ever crossing paths. It only takes a few minutes to visit Sazaedo, but its uniquely labyrinthine structure and mysterious atmosphere make the building worth the quick detour from the main path, which leads from the foot of the hill straight to the Byakkotai tombs. On your way back down, make sure to stop at the cluster of little shops at the bottom of the stone staircase to try a manju sweet steamed bun.

Ouchi-juku

Located less than an hour’s drive south from the regional hub of Aizu-Wakamatsu City, Ouchi-juku is a picturesque village, which has been used as a “post town” ( a rest place travellers journeying across the country) since 1640. Its thatched-roof houses have changed little since the Edo period and now host a charming selection of shops and cafés, many of which have been run by the same family for generations.

Make sure to try eating soba noodles with a leek instead of chopsticks – a local speciality that tastes far better than you’d expect. Also, pick up some local sake at the cute little liquor store. What’s more, stroll all the way through the village to the store steps at the back. These lead to an observation platform, which offers the ultimate time traveller’s photo op.

Ouchijuku is at its most beautiful in February- the month the annual Snow Festival is held- when thick snow blankets the thatched rooftops. That being said, summer is an equally good time to visit, thanks to the cool mountain air and numerous weekend events.

Tokyo

©EDO-TOKYO MUSEUM

Edo-Tokyo Museum

Its outlandish architectural style makes this huge museum a fixture in Ryogoku, one of the best Tokyo neighbourhoods for travellers with a soft spot for bygone days. It houses the city’s best collection of displays dealing with the history of Tokyo and its pre-1868 predecessor, Edo. Highlights include large-scale reconstructions of Nihonbashi bridge and the facade of the Nakamura-za kabuki theatre, as well as detailed models of city quarters at different eras.

Exhibits outline lifestyles and show how disasters, both natural and man-made, have altered the city’s landscape. The English labelling is good and there are plenty of fun hands-on opportunities for experiencing history – how about trying to fit your frame into a litter (a box-shaped palanquin used by the Tsuyama domain), hoisting an Edo fire brigade's banner or pretending you are an Edo- era street merchant ?

Working your way through the entire permanent exhibition can take up an entire day, but re-entry on the same date is allowed and the museum houses a handful of cafés and eateries for exhausted visitors. We like the Japanese restaurant on the top floor, which offers views towards the Sumida River, visible beyond the neighbouring Kokugikan sumo stadium.

Kagurazaka

Famed for its picturesque cobblestone streets, ample selection of French restaurants and sophisticated atmosphere, the neighbourhood of Kagurazaka first rose to prominence as a hanamachi (geisha district) in the Edo era. Benefiting from a convenient location just outside the city's castle gates, it continued to serve as a centre for entertainment long into the Meiji period, when Bishamonten temple's night markets and street performances drew crowds of affluent city-dwellers.

Escaping the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 relatively intact, the neighbourhood eventually came to host up to 150 ryotei (traditional fine dining) restaurants, some of which have survived to the present day. After the postwar decades took their toll on Kagurazaka, the area has recently experienced a mini-revival with the influx of French and other European influences, which coexist with the hanamachi vibe of the olden days. When visiting, make sure to explore the back alleys – you're likely to stumble across a hidden gem of a restaurant, a dive bar, or even a bona fide geisha hurrying to her next appointment.