Deathmatch in Hell
Photo: Keisuke TanigawaDeathmatch in Hell

The anti-Valentine’s Day guide to Tokyo

Do V-Day differently by swapping out candle-light dinner and rom-coms for slasher flicks and climbing into an army tank

Emma Steen
Written by
Emma Steen
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Valentine’s Day can be a trying time for everyone. What’s more, here in Japan we must face the ordeal twice with Valentine’s Day on February 14 as well as White Day on March 14. For those wondering, White Day is a day marked in Japan as well as neighbouring Asian countries where the men who have received gifts on V-Day must return the gesture (it is typically the women who give men chocolates on February 14).

For some, Valentine’s Day is a welcome excuse to eat lavish chocolates and go for ironic outings with your pals, but for others it’s a distressing day that they wish they could avoid altogether. 

Still a little stung from your most recent break-up? Too busy for romance? Perhaps you just have a low tolerance for capitalist nonsense. If you're trying to dodge the potential strike of cupid's arrow this season, we've got you covered. Here's a roundup of the most unromantic places in the city, where you'll be able to hide from all those saccharin-sweet couples. 

RECOMMENDED: Best restaurants in Tokyo for solo diners

JGSDF Public Information Center
  • Museums
  • Saitama

Safeguard those emotional walls you built by clambering into a state-of-the-art Type 10 battle tank. The JGSDF Public Information Center was established with the aim of publicising the history, organisation and equipment of the Japan Ground Self-Defense Force to the public.

Change into the army combat uniform provided and get an up-close look at impressive machinery including an AH-1S helicopter (also referred to as the Cobra) that you can clamber into. The center also features a 3D theatre, a flight simulator and an underground command post.

Ichiran
  • Restaurants
  • Nishi-Shinjuku

Only a fool would take a date to Ichiran on Valentine’s Day, so rest assured you’ll be able to slurp your noodles in solitude without bearing the anxiety of being surrounded by a bunch of happy couples. This counter-seating-only ramen joint divides every diner with a partition and even the servers are separated from by a curtain, only lifting it to take your order and serve your noodles. No chance of any chit-chat either, as you place your order by filling out a slip of paper to select the firmness of your noodles, how much fat you want in your broth and what toppings you want in your ramen.

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  • Museums
  • Meguro

With dozens upon dozens of glass jars filled with roundworms, flukes and other unsavoury organisms, the Meguro Parasitological Museum probably takes the cake for having the weirdest, most off-putting exhibits. The museum was founded in 1953 by a doctor who was overwhelmed by the number of patients afflicted by parasites caused by the poor sanitary conditions that were widespread in post-war Japan.

There are two levels to explore here, with a diverse array of parasitical specimens to check out on the first floor, while the second floor focuses on the life cycles of certain parasites and the symptoms they cause when growing inside a human. For instance, there’s a tapeworm there that was extracted from the stomach of 40-year-old man measuring 8.8m (longer than some relationships!).

  • Things to do
  • Aoyama

Once owned by the Aoyama family of the Gujo Clan in the Meiji Era, Aoyama Cemetery was Japan’s first cemetery to be open to the public. It is the resting place of some of Japan’s most notable artists, scientists and politicians as well as Shibuya’s most loyal dog, Hachiko, whose statue sees throngs of visitors a day at Shibuya Station. While the area has over 120,000 graves of both Japanese and foreign figures, it is also a delightfully scenic spot for a quiet stroll. The cemetery is lined with rows of cherry blossoms along its main road, which make it one of the most splendid spots in Tokyo when the pink blossoms come into full bloom in late March.

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  • Bars and pubs
  • Shinjuku

It’s fair to say this bar attracts a very particular crowd, but that doesn’t mean that you have to know your way around death metal to join the party. The barman is also an avid fan of old-school horror flicks and there are two movies screening behind the bar at any given time. That said, you may have a hard time focusing on the gory classics with everything else the bar has going for it.

From a ghoulish Yoda chained to the wall to a disco ball and dozens of other peculiar-looking figurines, there are plenty of conversation points in this hardcore tavern. If you’re somewhat put off by the horror fest, you may be won over by the cost of drinks here: most of them are priced fittingly at ¥666, cheaper than most of the surrounding bars – and there’s no cover charge.

Ohshika
  • Bars and pubs
  • Shibuya

Located in Shibuya’s Dogenzaka neighbourhood, Ohshika has an unusual policy that limits entry exclusively to unaccompanied drinkers. This bijou, chandelier-lit bar has a cosy air that makes it feel like a safe space for lone females, and Ohshika is also non-smoking throughout.

Drinks wise, the focus is on cocktails, with the house original made with calvados and apple pie syrup topped with candy floss and vanilla ice cream; snacks and pasta dishes are also served. The best part is, there’s no cover charge at Ohshika.

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  • Things to do
  • Shibuya

One place where you can simultaneously be alone and also in the company of millions of other people around the world is the internet. The city is full of internet cafés where you can sit in a private booth to read manga or play online games for hours without being nagged to ‘go outside for once’.

At the recently opened Hailey’5 Cafe in Shibuya Beam, you can not only book a room with a PC but also a private darts room or mini theatre, so you can watch movies on a flat screen with a better sound system than you have at home. The café is especially good for those with a sweet tooth because it offers a DIY dessert bar where you can create the towering sundae of your dreams with a variety of toppings and sauces to douse your soft-serve and sponge cake with. The payment plan starts at ¥660 for an hour, and there is a registration fee of ¥330 for first-time users.  

Hajime no Ippo
  • Restaurants
  • Kagurazaka

Arguably the best thing about not having a date planned is not having to worry about garlic breath. Hajime no Ippo is a restaurant dedicated to all things garlic and there is not a dish on the menu that isn’t full of the stuff.

To start, order the fried garlic, which is served to you as a whole bulb but delivers a sweet, mellow flavour instead of a biting punch. Follow with a main of aromatic garlic fried rice with seafood or the skirt steak; the latter comes with chaliapin sauce, on a sizzling griddle with lemon, butter and a dash of soy sauce, and topped with plenty of minced garlic. Don’t forget to leave room for the gelato at the end of your meal, which, naturally, is also flavoured with garlic.

Something for the couples

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