Ultimate guide to Nozawa Onsen ski resort: where to stay, what to do, when to go

To get to Nozawa Onsen from Tokyo, hop on the JR East Hokuriku Shinkansen bound for Nagano at either Tokyo Station or Ueno Station. It takes about 90 minutes to reach Iiyama Station, where you’ll switch to the Nozawa Onsen Liner that  will take you directly to the ski resort in roughly 25 minutes.

Whether you’re skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing or Snowscooting (like snowboarding and BMX had a love child), you’ll find everything you need at Salomon Station rental shop. To borrow gear, you’ll need to register your email address on the shop’s website and fill out an online application form (services available from November 25 2023). 

The process is fairly quick; it can be done on your smartphone at the venue. Once you’ve filled out the form (specify the kind of equipment you need and for how many days), show the confirmation screen to the staff and they will get you kitted out for the day. Ski and snowboard sets are available for ¥5,000 per day for adults (¥4,000 for children). You can also rent outerwear for ¥3,500 a day if you need some extra layers. 

The Nozawa Onsen snow resort boasts 46 runs in total, including standard slopes, half pipes and cross country training facilities. The 20 ski lifts mostly operate from 8.30am to around 4pm or 4.30pm, depending on which part of the mountain you’re on. 

Slopes are classified in three levels of difficulty. The easiest slopes (indicated in green) can be found on the bottom half of the mountain and they make up about half of the courses.  Intermediate slopes, on the other hand, are indicated in red while the black slopes are the most challenging. 

If you’re just starting out or feeling a little rusty, practice on short, mellow runs like the Nagasaka course before hopping on a gondola for the longer Uenotaira slope (roughly 2km). Meanwhile, confident skiers and snowboarders can head to the Yamabiko area on the top of the mountain where you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of surrounding peaks. On a clear day, you can even see the Sea of Japan in the far distance. There are five slopes to ski down from the summit, but they’re all classified as intermediate level so make sure you know what you’re doing before going all the way to the top. 

Ski and snowboard lessons are available in English. But if you’re an avid skier looking for adventure, you might be interested in joining a backcountry tour (from ¥15,000 per person for a seven-hour tour). 

With all the different tracks to zip through, expect to be knackered by the early afternoon. To refuel, pop into one of the mountain huts for a hearty katsu curry paired with a crisp cold beer. Alternatively, swing by the Mt Dock Gondola Cafe for some carrot cake and a hot drink before catching the lift for one last run. 

Accommodation rates fluctuate depending on the time of year, but the good news is that Nozawa Onsen offers options for every budget from cheap and cheerful inns to luxurious bed and breakfasts. If it’s comfort you’re after, look no further than Residence Yasushi. The B&B offers a good balance of Japanese and Western styles – in its interior design as well as the food menu – so you’ll never feel far from home. At the end of a long day on the slopes, you can wrap yourself in a duvet and watch Netflix from the flat screen in your room, or curl up with a book by the wood stove in the cosy lounge. 

Travelling in a group? You might want to book a whole apartment. The Shirakaba ryokan and Nozawa Gondola Apartments are both within walking distance of the main ski area and are well suited for groups of up to six and 10 people, respectively. The Nozawa Gondola Apartments has a modern chalet feel to it while the ryokan offers a more traditional experience with tatami mat rooms and Japanese futon. 

Before you pass out on your futon, though, you’ll want to do some hot spring hopping between the village’s free bathhouses.

As a historical onsen area that flourished in the Edo period (1603-1867), Nozawa Onsen is as famous for its natural hot spring baths as it is for its ski slopes. The 13 bathhouses are housed in unique, Edo-style structures that are easy to distinguish when walking through the village centre. Plus, they are all free.

Careful when dipping in – these alkaline waters can be hot enough to cook eggs in (no, really). While the sotoyu (public baths) typically range from 45 to 49 degrees celsius, there are designated egg boiling stations in the town centre where you can slow cook your very own onsen tamago in the free-flowing spring water, whose temperature can reach up to 90 degrees celsius. 

There’s one extra bathhouse that isn’t officially considered to be one of the 13 sotoyu – but it’s worth the visit. Built in 2011, the relatively new Furu Sato no Yu is bigger than the other baths and has a more modern feel to it. While it charges a small fee of ¥500, you’ll get amenities like shampoo and conditioner, which the 13 sotoyu don’t offer, as well as two baths each for men and women.

Nozawa Onsen’s ski season usually runs from December through March, but the best time to go is in January or February, when the powdery snow (colloquially known here as ‘JaPow’) is at its fluffiest. For a jaw-dropping treat, plan your trip so that you’ll be in the area on January 15, when the annual Dosojin Fire Festival takes place. 

The fascinating ritual involves the village men staging a battle with burning torches as a way of bringing good fortune to locals. The whole charade can last up to four hours, ending with a magnificent bonfire and lashings of sake.