Glacier National Park is a summer bucket list destination for its sunny trails, wildflower blooms and roaring waterfalls, but the shoulder season—a.k.a. the 'secret season'—is prime time for in-the-know travelers looking for a richer experience. Fall carries the risk of rapidly dropping temps, snow and the potential early closure of the park’s main attraction, Going-to-the-Sun Road. But if you time it right, fall is a great option not only for a visit to Glacier, but also to the nearby gateway town of Whitefish, Montana. The summer crowds have tapered off and the winter sports enthusiasts haven’t taken over, resulting in a kind of peaceful pause that lets you immerse yourself more deeply in both nature and Whitefish.
While Glacier doesn’t rank up there with the likes of Yosemite and Yellowstone—yet—it can get busy in the spring and summer. You might miss the wildflowers and warm weather, but September and early October mean fewer crowds and gorgeous autumnal colors. Going-to-the-Sun—the 50-mile scenic road through the park that affords views of stunning peaks, waterfalls, and glacial lakes—closes seasonally due to snow, and has closed as early as late September. But if the weather forecast is amenable, you won’t see too many cars on the road. Catching a glimpse of moose, deer and bears is all the more special without throngs of tourists pulling over to take pictures. Trails are manageable too, with fewer crowds on popular hikes like Avalanche Lake and Hidden Lake Overlook. The skies might be moody and grey, but the lake is still stunning. Be sure to sign up for an educational hike with the Glacier Institute—you’ll learn all about the flora, fauna and fascinating history of the area.
Just a half hour away, Whitefish is an ideal base for exploring the park. Unlike glamorous mountain towns like Telluride or Park City, Whitefish is quaint and unpretentious, with plenty of local culture and characters. Its proximity to Glacier means daily visits are a breeze, and right in the town’s backyard is the community-driven Whitefish Trail, with 47 miles of hiking and biking. Access to nature doesn’t get much easier.
Aside from the outdoor adventures, there’s plenty of activity in the town. The weekly Whitefish Farmers' Market in Depot Park runs through the end of September, and features picture-perfect produce like heirloom tomatoes, huckleberries, veggies and fall staples like cider and jams. Though Whitefish may not have much actual German heritage, the town’s lively Oktoberfest is a highlight of the fall season. Locals pack the grounds wearing lederhosen and Tyrolean hats for drinking, dancing and competitions like stein-holding, keg-tossing and log-sawing. Food vendors serve up traditional German fare, some with a local twist like elk bratwurst. You can also catch the last of the monthly Gallery Nights (the first Thursday of each month from summer through fall), when locals come out to mingle and admire impressive collections of art, from contemporary to Western.
The dining scene in Whitefish is robust for its size, from higher-end (but unpretentious) restaurants to scruffy, old-school joints. The chef-driven, Mediterranean-inspired Beldi focuses on local, seasonal ingredients and has a nice wine list to match. Wasabi Sushi Bar is a local favorite; rolls are innovative and the owner is more than happy to share her favorite sake options, several of which you won’t find anywhere else in the state. Buffalo Cafe is a classic, family-owned spot for a hearty breakfast, lunch or dinner. Buffalo Pies (stacks of hash browns with various fixings), juicy burgers, elk tacos and the Hot Veggie Salad (with its secret purple dressing) are all standouts.
Whitefish’s drinking scene is impressive as well. Spotted Bear Spirits is a woman-owned distillery—and stylish local hangout—making spirits with local ingredients and shaking up cocktails that highlight the local flavors. Blackstar, a brewery and restaurant, is warm and friendly despite its industrial vibe. It serves up good beer, pub food and hosts events like crafting nights and info nights for local organizations. The Bulldog Saloon and its legendary bathrooms (featuring cheeky NSFW photos and cartoons), is a watering hole and gathering spot where anyone will feel right at home, especially when it’s cold outside.
As far as accommodations, Whitefish has plenty of options for all types. The Garden Wall Inn offers a traditional B&B experience in a home that dates back to the 1920s, though updated with modern amenities. The gourmet breakfast is a treat, featuring strong local coffee and fruit from the farmers' market. They’ll even pack you a breakfast to go if you’re heading to the park early.
For something more modern, Apres Whitefish nails the boutique alpine vibe. The rooms are minimalist but sleek and comfy, and guests can enjoy an authentic sauna and lawn games when not exploring the town or the trails.
For those seeking a Western experience, Bar W Guest Ranch just outside of town lets you disconnect (limited Wi-Fi) and get back to the wild with horseback riding, skeet shooting and communal cowboy meals. It’s a lively spot where you can get to know all the staff and ranch hands on trail rides and during evening activities. Some activities are available to the public, too, so you can have some cowboy fun while staying in town.
Locals might tell you that things can get rough (especially for them) in the summer as well as the ski season due to the influx of tourists, so fall is a sweet spot where you can enjoy everything Whitefish and Glacier National Park have to offer, without the crowds or stressed-out staff.