If the lush hillsides and swaying grasses don’t lull you into a sense of calm at the dreamy Tu Tu’ Tun Lodge, then surely the sound of the river will. Golden light pours over the property and deer graze the grounds at this river retreat in an otherwise sleepy (and I say that lovingly) corner of Oregon.
It’s been that way for 50 years. But the modern glass cabins haven’t always been there. And the private soaking pools are a recent add-on. The spa is a new addition too, and the Michelin-awarded chef only started cooking at the lodge last year. Five decades in, Tu Tu’ Tun has managed to modernize without letting go of its roots, or alienating its regulars.
Many historic hotels and lodges haven’t had such luck as lobbies get whitewashed, modular furniture and “greige” dominate, and the Airbnb aesthetic reigns, turning old-school gems palatable but inoffensive and a little dull. So how has this upscale resort managed to stay so homey, low-key and chill?
After three peaceful days at the lodge back in January and a handful of interviews with staff and recurring guests, my biggest takeaway about Tu Tu’ Tun might be the most obvious: However much the offerings or aesthetics might shift, the land itself isn’t going anywhere. Situated in the southwestern corner of Oregon, about two hours west of Medford (which houses the closest airport), the lodge is a short 10-minute drive from the ocean. Guests see the same sunset over the same Rogue River rushing. As Ashley Warden, an employee of the lodge since 2009, said, “Old and new come together to make something amazing.”
All original structures on the property, from the main lodge to the check-in cabin, have remained since their 1970 opening, through owner transitions and stylistic shifts. The main lodge, where meals are served and guests can mingle, has color, texture and variety (along with a truly gargantuan fireplace perfect for a cozy evening playing cards on the couch).
I was hosted in one of the all-glass cabins (starting at $300 per night; main lodge rooms begin at a similar price), which I had the pleasure of staying in amidst winter breezes and sunlight, fit into the landscape despite their space-age look, some placed along a forested path and others facing the river. From the outside, their walls are entirely mirrored, reflecting the natural beauty surrounding them, while indoors the walls function as tinted windows, providing 360-degree views. The lodge also added a wood-burning sauna in the same glass style, a few paces from the river, allowing for icy dips post-sauna sweat.
Though summers at Tu Tu’ Tun are bustling, the lodge in the winter months is calm, maybe even a little underbooked. Thus, the few of us dining in the restaurant each night would inevitably chat. I spoke with a guest who had been coming to Tu Tu’ Tun every year since 1999. Visiting from Los Angeles (a 13-hour drive) he loves the quiet of coastal Oregon winters. He mentioned that some longtime guests were disappointed to see the family-style dinners the lodge previously hosted go, as new ownership had a different dinnertime vision. But, self-described as shy, he likes the more private and upscale meal opportunities.
The chef, Derek Piva, came out from the kitchen multiple times every meal to check on each guest, which made the individualized (and yes, quite fancy) meals still feel thoughtful and communal.
The hotel boasts remarkable food and wine. The menu changes with the seasons, but appears to have a few standbys. Some favorites from my stay include their smoked potato bread (a multi-day process to make, involving barbecued potatoes); the radicchio and citrus salad with stracciatella, mint, honey and dukkha; and their tagliatelle al limone. The kitchen team also sets up picnic baskets by request, complete with crudité, homemade hummus, multiple cheeses, meats, nuts, fruit and, of course, a bottle of wine. The wine program was awarded the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence and mostly features local, small-scale wines, particularly from two biodynamic Oregon wineries Cowhorn and Johan.
Another couple I spoke with had been visiting Tu Tu’ Tun for over 20 years. They lit up talking about it, and when I asked about a recommendation for a hike nearby, they listed a range of great picks (Port Orford Heads and Otter Point were my favorites). If I were to visit during warmer weather, I’d also be tempted by the highly recommended boat tour on Jerry’s Rogue Jets, which have been offering rides since 1895 up the river to Agness, a tiny historic town a couple of hours from Tu Tu’ Tun.
Though ownership has changed hands multiple times over the years, some employees I spoke with expressed a persisting sense of family; Vance Scott, who’s been at the lodge since 2007, says “the heart and soul of the operation has not changed since the beginning.” And personally, I felt that: After discussing my upcoming wedding with one bartender (who plans weddings on the side), she returned to work the next day with a printed-out, personalized list of recommendations for the big day.
Robin Mayer, the lodge’s landscape designer and gardener for almost 20 years, has overseen plenty of aesthetic shifts on the grounds (as of late, they’ve prioritized native plants. Think: ferns, Oregon grapes, and red flowering currants). Mayer admitted that the lodge is always in a state of change: with seasons, with nature’s influence, with employees and caretakers, and with ownership. Profoundly, Mayer said, “A dead fish will float down the river with the current, it takes a live one to swim against it, ensuring a future.”