What is it? The real taste of Thailand transplanted to a Melbourne CBD carpark (and then in 2024, where it currently lives, Tivoli Arcade), Soi 38 had us at the boat noodles. Lurking in a pungent soup broth with a host of add-ons (braised pork or beef, a pork ball and crackling, bean sprouts and coriander), the springy noodles are big on flavour and even bigger on comfort.
Why we love it: Boat noodles aren’t the only street food specialty here, only serving to increase the agony of indecision. Will it be the pork skewers known as moo ping, the pad krapow, the ultimate khao soi or the golden-fried pork jowl? Our advice: visit again and again so you can eat through the entire menu. The fact that the new Soi 38 location has a fully functioning electric kitchen (a first!) and greater capacity than ever before proffer only further reasons to pay this instant Melbourne icon a visit.
Time Out tip: If the last time you tried to eat at Soi 38 you couldn’t get a table, don’t despair. The new location seats up to five times as many diners as the old carpark digs.
Address: 38 Royal Lane, Melbourne 3000
Expect to pay: Boat noodles $10-$15, salads $15-$20, raw dishes $18-$22, grilled meats around $16 per plate, soups $20-$38, deep-fried snacks $15-$17, Thai barbecue and hotpot around $45