Sonia Nair is a food, book and theatre critic who has been contributing to literary journals, newspapers and periodicals for close to a decade. When she's not contravening her many intolerances at dining establishments around Melbourne (read more about that here), she's either writing, reading or napping.

Sonia Nair

Sonia Nair

Time Out Melbourne food and drink contributor

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Articles (25)

Here are the best new Melbourne restaurants and bars to check out

Here are the best new Melbourne restaurants and bars to check out

Here's your ultimate guide to the city's most exciting recent restaurant and bar openings, updated regularly for your reading (and tasting) pleasure. With this list on hand, you'll be the first to know where to find the hottest brunch spot, vino bar or fine diner – all sussed out by our fastidious team of writers and critics. Note: we generally include venues that are only twelve months (give or take) young in this list.  Ready to make a booking somewhere spesh? Read on. Still hungry? These are the 50 best restaurants in Melbourne right now. Fancy a tipple? Check out the 50 best bars in Melbourne. Lauren Dinse is Time Out Melbourne’s Food and Drink Writer. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.
The 50 best cafés in Melbourne

The 50 best cafés in Melbourne

May 2025: Yeowch, it's getting chilly! Warm up with a brisk walk to one of these local gems: all beloved community faves for a reason. At these cosy spots, you can get a good cuppa or caffeine fix, a welcoming face that'll remember your name if you're a regular, plus tip-top brekky and lunch plates to fuel you for the day.  There's a lot to love about Melbourne's world-class café scene. Wickedly good coffee. Creative brunch dishes that taste as good as they look, fresh from the minds of some of the city's top talent. And of course, the vibes. Discovering hot new cafés is almost a competitive sport in a city with AM dining of this calibre, so we've scoured Melbourne to bring you a guide to the finest of the lot. Looking for dessert that masquerades as breakfast? Check out the best doughnuts in Melbourne. Prefer a healthier feed? Try our pick of the best healthy lunch eats in the CBD.
The 50 best cheap eats in Melbourne

The 50 best cheap eats in Melbourne

May 2025: If the looming winter ahead is having you hankering for that mid-year holiday (Euro summer, anyone?), you're probably keeping an eye on your bank account. Sun-chasers, savers and those simply on a tight budget right now, we know the spots around town where you can eat well without breaking the bank.  The late and great respected chef Anthony Bourdain once famously said: “I'd rather eat in Melbourne than Paris." It goes without saying that Melbourne has long been revered as one of Asia Pacific's most exciting food cities, but that status isn't just attributed to our fancy restaurants – special as many of those upper crust institutions may be. Our laneways and hidden alcoves are brimming with cheap street eats, smashable pub deals and dinner options you can enjoy for $20, $15 or even under $10, so you can stop counting your hard-earned pennies and start eating instead. Lauren Dinse is Time Out Melbourne’s Food and Drink Writer, and has spent an impressive time scouting for the city's tastiest cheap eats – from her early student days spent wandering around Carlton and the CBD in search of a pocket change lunch, to the present day covering fun new openings for Time Out.  For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. Don't want to spend a cent? We've got you covered with our guide to the best things to do for free in Melbourne.
The best Lygon Street restaurants and bars

The best Lygon Street restaurants and bars

Since the 1960s, Lygon Street has been known and loved as Melbourne's Little Italy precinct. Locals and tourists alike flock to the leafy strip – abuzz on weekends with the roaring of fancy cars and roaming of uni students, teens and families – for proper espresso, pasta and cake, and a true taste of Italian-style al fresco action.  Sure, you might get a bit of hassle from the sales-y footpath waiters trying to lure you in, but true Melburnians know that's a part of the street's charm. And though much has changed in the last decade, there's no doubt that if you want to sit out on a terrace with a pizza bigger than your head or sip Spritzes on a rooftop, Lygon Street is still the place to be.  In 2024, there's a much larger and more diverse culinary offering in this area than ever before. Particularly on the southern end of the Carlton stretch, you'll discover incredible eateries for Egyptian, Japanese, Indian, Thai, plus a variety of other cuisines. No longer just the domain of spaghetti and salumi, Lygon Street is now also worth heading to for a bangin' biryani or world-class Asian fusion. And that's not all. Take a stroll up towards Brunswick East and you'll discover trendy wine bars, pubs with live music, American barbecue, Polish dumplings, Sicilian food and one of the best taco joints in town. Hungry yet? Let's go for a wander! We've listed Lygon Street's best restaurants in Google Maps-checked order so you'll know where to find them. Looking for the cream of the crop?
The 50 best restaurants in Melbourne right now

The 50 best restaurants in Melbourne right now

May 2025: If March is Mad and April is All Over the Place (what with two long weekends and hence two shorter weeks), then hopefully May is... well, hopefully Mellow? Mellow May: does that work? Nevertheless, while this time of year in town may dial down along with the temps, we've all still got to eat and it's always way more fun to eat out – especially in Melbourne, where excellent restaurants abound. If you're looking for somewhere bold, beautiful, knock-your-socks-off good or simply reliable enough to impress someone else over your next dinner, then this is the list you should choose from.  The continually evolving and expanding dining scene in Melbourne is both a blessing and a curse: how do you choose between so many incredible restaurants? Well, that's where we come in. Stop endlessly scrolling, and commit to making your way through Time Out’s list of the best restaurants in the state right now. Our always-hungry local experts, including Time Out Melbourne's Food and Drink Writer, Lauren Dinse, have curated 2025's most delicious and divine, innovative and imaginative, comforting and familiar, memorable and magical dining experiences right here at your fingertips. From culinary institutions like Flower Drum and France-Soir, to emerging standouts and instant icons such as Serai, Gimlet and Kafeneion, we've got it all covered here. And as for the brand new restaurant and bar openings catching our eye? Check out this guide instead. Get out, and get eating! You've got a lot
The 50 best bars in Melbourne

The 50 best bars in Melbourne

May 2025: Some of our beloved bars and brewpubs are closing their doors fast in these trying times, while others seem to be enjoying a roaring trade every night of the week. What gives? It's a bittersweet period in Melbourne's bar scene right now, with some venues thriving and others just surviving. Our advice is to rally together, drink out when you can and support your fave locals more ardently than ever. While sharing space with strangers might seem like more of an effort in the colder months, it sure beats drinking cheap wine at home in your sweatpants. Melbourne has some of the greatest bars in the world, whether you're looking for the laser-like focus of 16-seater Above Board or the rock‘n’roll ‘she’ll be right’ spirit of Lulie Tavern. You can find temples heroing whisky and palaces dedicated to gin, hole-in-the-wall nooks for sipping natural wines or classy spots for suited-and-booted cocktails. How about a prawn club sanga and a bottle of Champers from tiny charmer Apollo Inn? Or crocodile bites and ice-cold Martinis from Black Kite Commune?  If it's sky-high action you're after, then take a squiz at our guide to Melboune's best rooftop bars instead. For tipples a bit more out-of-the-box, we've got the scoop on some of Melbourne's weirdest drinking experiences. Yep, your options in this town are truly endless – even if you don't drink booze, since most bars in Melbourne have seriously upped their mocktail game in recent years. We've rounded up the top 50 bars that we
The best Mexican restaurants in Melbourne

The best Mexican restaurants in Melbourne

Mexican food used to be tough to find in Melbourne. Then it was easy, but it was pretty much only Tex-Mex (most of it, not great). Fortunately, those days are no more – today, our city is blessed with everything from lively cantinas to late-night mezcal bars, and everything in between. If you're craving a taco (or several) and a spicy Margarita, turn up the heat with our guide to Melbourne's hottest Mexican joints.  Looking for Melbourne's best Italian, too? We've also got you sorted for Japanese and Korean restaurants as well. 
The best bánh mì in Melbourne

The best bánh mì in Melbourne

A traditional bánh mì has bread with crunch, but not so much that it scrapes the roof of your mouth. It’s fluffy and light, but not so flaky it completely disintegrates into your lap. It’s the perfect vessel for liberal amounts of pâté, a Vietnamese condiment called egg mayo butter, fresh cucumber, pickled carrot (and daikon if you’re lucky), generous sprigs of coriander and chilli, plus the protein of your choice. On the sauce front, some shops will opt for a dash of Maggi seasoning and soy, others go the hoisin route or even a combination of more than one. Word of warning: you may encounter a holier-than-thou type on your bánh mì travels who insists your choice of sanga is "not the authentic way". But the truth is that 'bánh mì' literally translates to the short baguette itself. You can enjoy this freshly baked delight stuffed with any filling you like – crispy pork belly, nem nuong (grilled pork sausage), chicken, mixed ham, tofu, beef or just plain salad! We love the braised pork and duck confit options at Banh Mi Stand, but we're equally partial to the no-nonsense cold cuts at Phuoc Thanh. There are plenty of regional variances all across Vietnam, and some Vietnamese even like to enjoy theirs filled with ice cream. So how did we come up with this list? Well, we ate a lot of bánh mì. We kept a rolling document that helped us to compare each one. We considered the balance of condiments, the quality of the bread and the freshness of the meat and salad. And we washed it all
The best Italian restaurants in Melbourne

The best Italian restaurants in Melbourne

A cuisine that lends itself to long, leisurely meals shared with others, Italian usually doesn't stop at just one course. So, do as the Romans do: start with an aperitivo – and an antipasto spread – before a primo course (cue the pasta), secondo (a meat dish), contorno (a side, or three) and of course, something dolce (sweet). The Time Out team have spent years scouring the city for Melbourne's best Italian food, and while restaurants (and writers) may come and go – there are a few spots that consistently deliver. So if you're looking for an Italian feast that'll knock your socks off, look no further – we've rounded up Melbourne's best Italian restaurants for you to try in 2025. Buon appetito! If you're after more Italian cuisine, visit our guides to Melbourne's best pizza and gelato.
The 20 best cheap eats in Australia

The 20 best cheap eats in Australia

Life in Australia ain’t cheap right now. With so many bills to pay, your budget for dining out might feel like it’s getting tighter and tighter every day. That’s why it’s more important than ever to make those pretty pennies go the extra mile. To help you out, we’ve asked local writers across Australia to recommend their top cheap eats in each capital city. These places whip up hearty meals for less than $20, whether it’s a hefty banh mi, steaming noodle soup or a tasty trio of tacos. Pick your favourite cuisine and track down your closest budget-friendly bite with our guide to the best cheap eats in Australia right now. ✈️ The cheapest places to fly from Australia🥐 Australia's top bakeries for a cheap feed🍕 The best pizzerias in Australia
The best cocktail bars in Melbourne

The best cocktail bars in Melbourne

Melburnians are almost as passionate about their cocktails as they are about their coffee. What's the proper way to make a Martini? Gin or Vodka Gimlet? And should a cocky ever be on tap? Though if there's anything we love more than these heated debates about drinks, it's putting an end to all that nonsense and simply enjoying them – whether alone, with friends or sitting opposite a lovely date. Wondering where to try next? We've sipped our way around this great city to find the bars with the best atmosphere, the most creative (or at least, the most welcoming) bartenders and of course, the finest drinks. Go forth, dear readers – you may just discover your new signature tipple.  If you're keen on exploring the world of vino instead, head to Melbourne's best wine bars. 
The 20 best Chinese restaurants in Australia

The 20 best Chinese restaurants in Australia

Given how close we are to China, good Chinese food isn’t hard to come by in Australia. But great Chinese food? That’s where local knowledge makes all the difference. Our Travel & News Editor, Melissa Woodley, grew up eating congee for breakfast, barbecue pork buns for school lunch and Sunday yum cha as a weekly tradition. She and her team of expert local writers across the country have curated this list of Australia’s best Chinese restaurants, so no matter which capital city you’re in, you can feast on the finest flavours. At Australia’s top Chinese restaurants, you won’t just find wonton noodle soups or prawn har gow (though we’re big fans of both). Prepare to be wowed by live lobsters dressed in spicy Sichuan sauce, Peking duck expertly carved tableside and crystal-clear prawn dumplings so good you wish you didn’t have to share. Here’s our pick of the best places for Chinese food in Australia right now. 🥘 Must-try Indian restaurants in Australia🍣 Australia's best Japanese restaurants🍽 All the best restaurants in Australia

Listings and reviews (78)

Molli

Molli

4 out of 5 stars
May 2025: It hasn't been long since Molli sprung onto the scene and yet she's already changed her stripes. There's a brand new fermentation genius at the helm in the friendly form of head chef Caitlyn Koether, who brings experience from San Francisco's famous Bar Tartine as well as Relae in Copenhagen. Expect wildly inventive flavours and drinks from legend Kayla Saito (ex-Aru) in a groovy artistic space that's welcoming all day long and into the night. On the new night menu, we love the tomato and charred bread dip with smoked mussels; the fried potato with black garlic and allium aioli; the embered onions with sweetbreads and bone marrow; and the Hazeldene chicken with charred shishitos, amaranth and koji jus. Check it out! - Lauren Dinse Read on for our original review of Molli from Sonia Nair in October 2024, noting that certain aspects of Molli's offerings have since changed. Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique. Tucked away in the residential backstreets of Abbotsford is Molli, a neighbourhood bar and bistro just a stone’s throw away from stalwart café Three Bags Full. Funnily enough, the perennially popular brunch destination is an earlier venture of Nathan Toleman, owner of Molli and founder of hospitality conglomerate the Mulberry Group, the same establishment behind CBD restaurants Hazel and Dessous.  Molli is a warm and inviting space,
Inuman

Inuman

4 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique. Askal’s cocktail destination Inuman is the latest in bar ventures from restaurants – think Maha’s opulent art deco bar Bar Jayda, Vue de Monde’s rooftop marvel Lui Bar, Longrain’s cocktail bar Longsong.  Ascending three flights of stairs from within Askal – enough to elevate you to a handsome view of Melbourne, not so many you completely lose your breath – will bring you to the bar and casual rooftop courtyard decked out with colourful striped cushions and tables.  It’s apt that the Tagalog word ‘inuman’ roughly translates as ‘to drink’. It’s a delightful mishmash of people frequenting Inuman when we visit – an older group of Filipino men, a couple, a contained trio of friends. Unlike other rooftop bars in Melbourne, Inuman remains somewhat undiscovered and the vibe, as a result, can be quiet. But what’s worse than dragging yourself up a perilous number of stairs to find a place completely full? And surely it's only a matter of time before this hidden gem is noticed.  The drinks list at Inuman is forever evolving, but it always has a distinct Filipino twist. The Southeast Asian grass jelly dessert cendol is given the cocktail treatment in the Hennessy-based Ais Cendol, while the gentle funk of durian is the lingering aftertaste of the calamansi-rich Tito Ray, an homage to Filipino bartending legend Ray Buhen. Gi
Bar Magnolia

Bar Magnolia

4 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique. Until recently, Sydney Road and its surrounding backstreets weren’t known for their wine-forward bars and restaurants. This has gradually started to change – there’s now laidback yet classy French bistro Bar Magnolia, neighbourhood wine bar Nina’s alongside the Anstey Station bike path, and intimate 35-seater Gemini further north.  You’d be forgiven for thinking Bar Magnolia is a lot stuffier than what it actually is, with its pressed white linen tablecloths and fastidiously attentive service. The more-than-a-year-old wine bar has retained the bones of the historical 1920s building it’s in – exposed red brick walls, stained-glass detailing in the upper windows. What you’ll find is a bistro fancy enough for a special date or notable occasion, but so warm and friendly it’s more akin to a neighbourhood wine bar.  There are tables out the front on the footpath, a sun-filled front room and then a cosier, darker nook out the back. There’s the option to perch by the wraparound bar, sit on stools overlooking the street, or settle into one of several tables with a view of the open, bustling kitchen where animated exclamations of “yes chef” are commonplace.  At $85 per person, the chef’s three-course seasonally rotating menu that includes nearly everything on the regular menu, bar dessert, is well worth the price tag.   S
Carnation Canteen

Carnation Canteen

3 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique. Nestled in the leafy backstreets of Fitzroy, Carnation Canteen is an elegant cornerside 20-seater restaurant. Inside where unembellished walls reign supreme, it feels like a modern rustic French bistro. In the white rear courtyard beneath the unfiltered rays, you almost feel like you’re in the back alleys of a Greek island.  At the risk of sounding older than I am, the loopy cursive scrawl on Carnation Canteen’s weekly rotating menu isn’t easy to decipher. The food continues in this vein – ever stylish, if not always the most satiating.  In any case, there are some noteworthy moments throughout the meal. A wedge of baked ricotta, presumably cut out of the impressive ricotta cake on the display counter, is pleasantly salty, luxuriant and crumbly. Spreading it on the accompanying slice of black kalamata olive crostini further ups the savoury ante. The small serving of al dente spears of baby asparagus infused in the flavours of an oily pistachio crumble heaped on top is moreish, though credit to its addictive salt crunch, we wish there was a bit more of it. And the charcoal-grilled prawns with chilli and garlic, while not extraordinary, have a beautiful char and saltiness reminiscent of the sea.  The saucisson (thick, dry-cured sausage) is pleasingly paired with fava, mint and the salty, sharp tang of pecorino rom
Black Kite Commune

Black Kite Commune

4 out of 5 stars
Update October 2024: This review was originally written in 2023, so please be aware that some elements may have changed since. Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique. Moody, intimate and tastefully lit, Black Kite Commune is the latest addition to the illustrious Russell Place – joining sister bars Gin Palace (a Melbourne institution), its lively adjunct Bar Ampere, and until recently, Con Christopoulos’s celebrated all-day wine bar Neapoli.  But fret not – Black Kite Commune has stepped into Neapoli’s shoes, ticking all boxes and then some. Spread across two levels, the mood is '70s bar meets French bistro – wooden panelling and low ceilings meet black walls and dark carpeted floors. Take your pick between black leather banquettes upstairs where a gold button garners you immediate service, round high tables surrounded by stools upon entry, or a seat by the golden backlit bar. A birdcage contraption on the far corner of the first floor adds a playful energy, while the purple hues of a lightbox night sky installation overlooking the entire venue creates an ethereal feel.  The drinks menu is expansive. Expect to see bottles of wine delineated by their texture, fragrance and mouthfeel rather than variety (‘bright and perfumed’, ‘juicy and full’, ‘dense and rich’). The wine list blends the classics with the new-fangled – old-world reds sit alongside a met
Lagoon Dining

Lagoon Dining

5 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here. Asian-inspired, Asian fusion, modern Asian restaurants – whatever you want to call them – are familiar to Melbourne diners. Longrain and Gingerboy were early adopters way back when the focus was on rendering these cuisines ‘approachable’, Chin Chin and Supernormal inspired queues around the block in the 2010s, and the Hotel Windsor empire of Sunda, Aru and Parcs further upped the ante. But I’d argue Lygon Street stalwart Lagoon Dining – outlier in a sea of Italian restaurants – is the best of them.  Started up by Ezard trio Ned Trumble, Keat Lee and Chris Lerch, Lagoon Dining is consistently tantalising our taste buds with some of the most considered and punchiest contemporary takes on classic dishes. If you’re fixated with labels, Lagoon would be best categorised under that all-encompassing moniker ‘pan-Asian’. Very few dishes hew to the traditional. Yet true Southeast and East Asian influences are apparent everywhere, from the dishes Lagoon chooses to spotlight to the condiments they incorporate into said dishes – think sambal belacan, white pepper togarashi, gochujang, Chinkiang vinegar. The vibe is contemporary '70s with whitewashed exposed brick walls, black granite and lush curtains demarcating one space from the next. Co-owner and front-of-house manager
Maggie's Snacks and Liquor

Maggie's Snacks and Liquor

4 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique. The Lygon Street space that once housed the Alehouse Project is now home to expansive cocktail bar Maggie’s. Exposed brick walls adorned with French-style art deco posters and a candle-lit shrine that looks like something out of The Craft form the cosy backdrop to your visit. Despite floor-to-ceiling windows, the space retains a pleasant warmth in cooler weather and the din of nearby people is absorbed by perfect acoustics – this is a place you can bring your parents.  Maggie’s has a laidback enough quality that it beckons you in for dessert and a drink as much as it’s ideal for an hours-long meal. The menu is eclectic, with a strong Polynesian influence coming through in dishes like the Māori fried bread, the Cook Island ceviche and the hangi potato smashies – owing to New Zealand-born chef Scott Blomfield. Apart from a few outliers, the dishes are rich and indulgent, so order wisely or conserve some much-needed stomach space. Divided into ‘nibblish’, snackish’, ‘peckish’ and ‘famished’, it’s a menu designed for sharing.  Beers, ciders and wines on offer spotlight Australian producers, while the sophisticated cocktails are fashioned from byproducts of the kitchen. When we visit, the horchata for the horchata fizz cocktail has run out, but the pistachio orgeat used in its place nevertheless culminates in flavour
Ras Dashen

Ras Dashen

5 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here. Ras Dashen has been sating the appetites of inner westies for more than a decade, and it shows no signs of abating. The colourfully eclectic interiors are as inviting as they were when Ethiopian refugee Wondimu Alemu first set up shop on Nicholson Street in 2011. Having since moved to Barkly Street in 2017, paintings and scarves striped in the green, yellow and red of the Ethiopian flag hang from terracotta-coloured walls alongside ornate bowls and woven hats – if you look closely, you can even see Alemu’s beaming face memorialised in one of the paintings.  Alemu and his wife Alemitu Aberra are the heart and soul of Ras Dashen. Alemu is as friendly to first-timers as he is to seasoned visitors, full of such mirth it’s impossible not to smile in his presence as he punctuates each sentence with a merry cackle. Ras Dashen’s Ethiopian fare has something for everyone (vegans included), but what you do need to be is someone who’s comfortable eating with your hands. There’s no better way to enjoy torn off bits of injera – the fermented flatbread that's one of Ethiopia’s most famed exports – laden with your favourite curries.  The best thing to do is order several dishes, all of which will arrive on two different kinds of injera: a white sorghum one and a brown sorghu
Wazzup Falafel

Wazzup Falafel

5 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here. First making a name for itself as a food truck in Preston, Wazzup Falafel set up a permanent outpost earlier this year along High Street in Northcote – excellent news for lovers of the Palestinian-Jordanian outfit, now able to enjoy their famed falafels even in the most extreme of Melbourne’s weather conditions.  Wazzup Falafel owner Ahmad Al Alaea swapped a career in fitness with cheffing after he couldn’t find equivalent falafels to what he’d enjoyed growing up in Jordan as a Palestinian refugee. Training with the best falafel chefs back in Jordan, he opened his food truck in the fateful month of March 2020, soon garnering an ardent following within a five kilometre-radius. Thankfully, more people are now able to enjoy Wazzup Falafel’s fare. With a view of the kitchen where everything is made from scratch, the restaurant is sizeable without being huge and clad in warm timber – a perfectly cosy spot to enjoy a falafel or ten. The playfulness behind Wazzup Falafel’s name extends to its service – staff are smiley, jovial and only too happy to make recommendations on what you should order.  Falafels are, unsurprisingly, the name of the game here, but you get to decide how they’re served up to you – in a box alongside a medley of other ingredients, threaded on to
El Columpio

El Columpio

5 out of 5 stars
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more here. Sparsely decorated with bright pops of colour synonymous with the Mexican flag and jaunty Latin music playing from within its confines, new Johnston Street eatery El Columpio is bringing a slice of homestyle cooking to an oft-underappreciated quarter of Fitzroy.  Tortas and Tacos has livened up a strip traditionally associated with late-night shenanigans – think live music institution Old Bar and afrobeats club Laundry – but things remain tough for restaurants bold enough to set up shop in a stretch that can only be described as having bad ‘feng shui’. Vegan pinchos bar Follies shuttered after only a year and a half, citing the cost of living crisis. Doncaster Chinese vegetarian import Vegie Mum survived a far bit longer, but it too is shutting its doors at the end of this month. But not all is lost for those looking for a bite in the vicinity – not if El Columpio has anything to do with it.  Established by chef Ricardo Garcia Flores as part of a dream to introduce Melburnians to the family heirloom Mexican dishes he grew up with, El Columpio has a short but sweet menu. If you arrive before midday, you’ll be treated to a breakfast menu that comprises tamales and chilaquiles. Arrive after midday and the menu is identical, no matter if you arrive at 1pm or 8pm –
Askal

Askal

4 out of 5 stars
The co-founding team of John Rivera, Carlos Consunji, Ralph Libo-on, Michael Mabuti and Dhenvirg Ugot – proud Filipinos themselves – are also some of the names behind Kariton Sorbetes and Serai, ensuring bold and vibrant Filipino flavours are front and centre at Askal.  Think sizzling pork jowl and abalone sisig, ox tail kare kare doughnuts and torched scallop adobo. The showstopper dish making the rounds on socials is the roasted bone marrow, sitting in a claypot of crispy confit garlic rice and caramel-braised wagyu oyster blade for the grand total of $100. But it’s by far the most expensive dish on an otherwise reasonably priced menu of ‘pulutan’ (snacks and bites), ‘meryenda’ (entrees), ‘ulam’ (mains and sides) and ‘matamis’ (dessert). The moody yet otherwise nondescript space is a semi-industrial one with textured charcoal walls and simple shell chandeliers – sit by the bar to enjoy a peek into the bustling kitchen. Curate your own experience by ordering off the ala carte menu, or if you have choice paralysis as we did, opt for the $95 ‘feed me’ menu, that features a representative cross-section of the menu, though you may still want to add one or two must-order items.  Askal’s inventiveness extends to its cocktails – the same Tanduay rum in the leche flan appears in the banana-reminiscent Pahanocoy Dream, the nostalgia of childhood is revisited with the Hard Sarsi, and pineapple rum coupled with blackstrap rum and Campari are natural counterparts in the Ibong Adarna, As
Nina's Bar and Dining

Nina's Bar and Dining

4 out of 5 stars
Before Nina’s took residence at the base of Brunswick’s Nightingale Studios, it was a lively Bangladeshi restaurant and prior to that, a café that changed hands a few times. It’s the first time a wine bar serving food has popped up in the space and judging by residents’ warm reception, it’s being appreciated as much as its forebears.  Simultaneously cosy and industrial, Nina’s has retained the exposed pipes of yesteryear venues but where it stylistically departs the most is in its almost Hellenic light blue colour scheme, from the leather seats to the bright planter boxes bordering the outdoor space. The big windows bordering the bike track that runs in parallel to the Upfield line lends the space plenty of natural light, a sense of space and constant movement.  Service is both personable and personal, with a menu that speaks of the intimate network co-owners Shae and Hayley have built within their surrounding community – from the honey, a gift from a Nightingale resident, that features in a dessert to the curry leaves that garnish the king prawns, bounty from Hayley’s mum’s garden. Exemplifying this community spirit is their $35 Monday pasta nights – a godsend when most hospitality outfits are taking a much-needed day off – and their happy hour specials from 4 to 6pm four days a week. The menu leans heavily on seasonal produce and mostly comprises vegetables and seafood – a treat for pescatarians. Excitingly, there’s a compact specials menu below the regular menu, ranging fr