12 actually good things to do in Amsterdam’s red light district

Oude Kerk is the city’s oldest building, built in the 13th century by Catholics (then ransacked by Calvinists during the Reformation) and still holding huge importance to Amsterdammers. It might be like no where you’ve ever visited before – around 2,500 gravestones greet you when you walk through the door. Learning about its very turbulent history is fascinating in itself, but the venue is now a cultural centre in its own right, hosting exhibitions and gallery days from a load of international artists. 

Explore Amsterdam’s turbulent religious heritage at this fascinating museum in the Red Light District. The whole place centres around a clandestine chapel built by an underground Catholic congregation after their religion was outlawed in the sixteenth century by the Protestant Dutch government. Decorated with pastel pinks and vivid iconography, the chapel appears frozen in time, allowing visitors to fully experience this important chapter of Dutch history. 

Founded in the 1980s to help promote safe sex during the Aids crisis, Condomerie was the world’s first condom specialist store. Besides selling johnnies of all shapes and sizes, the store serves as an information centre for safe sex and offers advice concerning everything from artificial lubrication to personal hygiene. Even though its aims are noble, Condomerie doesn’t shy away from humour and stocks a bunch of novelty items emblazoned with cartoon condoms, too. 

It wouldn’t be right to discuss the red light district without at least mentioning the area’s most (in)famous feature: prostitution. But instead of gawking at windows alongside throngs of other tourists, there’s a much better way to get some insight into this world – and that’s by visiting Red Light Secrets. Referred to as the world’s ‘first and only prostitution museum,’ this institution attempts to contextualise the practice and show it from the perspective of those working in the field. If you’re interested in the history of the red light district and the impact prostitution has had on the area, Red Light Secrets is well worth a visit.

Tucked away in an unassuming spot on Zeedijk is the lovely little Mascini Theatre. This brown bar – or bruin café, what we call traditional Dutch pubs round here – has live music and theatre most days of the week, but it’s modest enough from the outside that you could walk past and not even know it was a venue. But don’t just come here for the theatre; it’s a bit of a hidden drinking spot too, with a very nice bar that overlooks the canal, open till 1am on weekdays and 3am on weekends. 

This charitable brewery helps locals facing difficulties in the job market find meaningful employment. Known for its preference for time-honed recipes, Brouwerij de Prael mainly brews traditional styles of beer from the Netherlands or elsewhere in north-western Europe. Its massive tasting room has all the charms of an old-school beer hall, featuring dark wooden furniture, vintage collectables and a bar fitted with silver fonts. Tread carefully: the beers here are notoriously strong (and moreish).

Dedicated to the often-overlooked history of cannabis, this museum retraces humanity’s relationship with weed from prehistoric times to the present. With highlights ranging from Samurai armour made from hemp to American anti-cannabis propaganda created during the height of Reefer Madness, the museum has plenty to offer seasoned stoners and history buffs alike. The space also hosts regular thought-provoking temporary exhibitions relating to cannabis cultivation, consumption and culture. 

Set inside several rooms attached to Oude Kerk, this secluded coffeehouse feels worlds apart from the hubbub of inner Amsterdam. As well as offering peace and quiet in an otherwise hectic neighbourhood, de Koffieschenkerij serves light lunches, fresh coffee and juices from morning until late afternoon. Don’t leave without trying the homemade apple pie: it’s served with lashings of whipped cream and works wonders alongside a cup of java.

With a reputation for promoting innovative, avant-garde theatre, Frascati puts on more than 500 productions each year, welcoming homegrown talent and international troupes alike. As independent Dutch production companies regularly premiere their latest work here, Frascati is among the best places in Amsterdam to discover the local drama, dance and comedy scenes. There’s also a two-storey bar that serves light bites and beer brewed in the Benelux region.

Vintage treasure hunters may have difficulty leaving this coffee room empty-handed – its wall-spanning collection of gorgeous retro knick-knacks, lampshades and embroideries are mostly for sale. While it certainly isn’t the largest spot in central Amsterdam, Latei boasts two cosy floors decorated with shabby-chic furniture and curiosities of all stripes, plus a small terrace with street-side seating. Food-wise, Latei mainly serves light, lunchtime dishes, like sandwiches, soups and cakes made in its tiny on-site kitchen.