Sotto Sotto

Aptly named for a racy Lina Wertmüller comedy, Milanese native Riccardo Ullio’s Inman Park fixture feels as chic and sexy as it did when it opened in 1999. No doubt the mood at Sotto Sotto is fueled in part by the gorgeous wine list: here, as at Nostrana, are Italy’s vinous trophies by the glass, with many more in bottle alongside curiosities from the Valle d’Aosta and Le Marche. Yet the robust, pan-regional piatti couldn’t be truer to the traditional spirit of the neighborhood trattoria—be it thehistoric recipe for veal-and-pork tortelli in butter and sage found in Michaelangelo’s letters; risotto flavored with caramelized onions and balsamic vinegar; or acqua pazza (“crazy water”), a vibrant dish of poached fish in tomato broth, followed by the simplest of housemade desserts (including true gelato artigianale).