Not much is known about the culinary offerings of the Baltic, a region comprised of three nation states—Latvia, Estonia and Lithuania. But celebrity chef Martin Blunos, who’s recognized by his iconic walrus-like mustache, is out to change this. Not many know that the British-born culinary sensation is of pure Baltic blood, born to Latvian parents. Blunos pays tribute to his Northern European heritage at Baltic Blunos, a new player in Bangkok’s fine-dining scene that introduces the pan-cultural flavors of the Baltic states.
A cheeky larger-than-life portrait painting of Chef Blunos welcomes guests to a dimly lit dining room. Decked out in brown wood (to evoke the Baltic wilderness), the main hall has a view of an illuminated ingredients lab, where greens are planted and live seafood is kept. A cocktail bar, decorated with still life and landscape paintings by Blunos’ artist uncle, serves aperitif and bar snacks. “[Balticness] is the attitude of the restaurant,” Blunos muses. “It’s very feral. There’s the use of wood, stone, leather and open space.”
Working with Blunos is Chef Aleksandrs Nasikailov, the former head chef of Vincent, one of the fine-dining mainstays in the Latvian capital of Riga. The powerhouse duo delivers their take on Baltic cuisine by bridging the region’s tastes with the more familiar flavors of Western European and Asian fare. “I use Latvian ingredients in all the dishes,” Chef Nasikailov reveals.
The tasting menu offers either a six- or eight-course set (B2,900/B3,400). Both balance culinary audacity with photogenic theatricality through the use of molecular techniques and a unique selection of plates. Get your camera ready for the amuse-bouche of betel leaf-wrapped avocado and crab, revealed by torching the spherical igloo it’s encased in, and creamy sea urchin with a citrusy bergamot foam.
The natural flavors of the ingredients shine in the next course of moon flowers stuffed with cheese made from Thai almonds. Nutty and slightly tart, the combination is offset by sweet “dhom kha” broth. A pickled and then grilled mackerel evokes the taste of the Baltic Sea, working beautifully with beetroot and horseradish cream.
Mottra caviar, a product of Russia and Latvia, adds extravagance to scallops with burnt butter hollandaise and sherry vinegar, while birch sap syrup (which tastes like balsamic vinegar) plays up the flavors of foie gras tortellini and Thai puffball mushroom. The star of the night is the black chicken, a heavenly dish served with Jerusalem artichoke and yellow curry sauce.
Chef Nasikailov reveals a talent for sweets through a winning dessert that combines coconut tofu, caramelized coconut ice cream and crumble, as well as 14 amazing petit-fours in flavors like salted egg, tamarind, and Riga Black Balsam (a Latvian spirit).
We recommend pairing your meal with the marvellous kombucha served with each course (B1,000). A fermented espresso (B280) pairs marvelously with the end-meal treats.
