What is it?: In an old house near the base of Sukhumvit Soi 33, North’s dinner tasting menu might be eye-wateringly expensive, but their lunch is thankfully reasonably priced, and absolutely worth a visit to experience their refined and subtle approach to Northern cuisine.
Why we love it: Industrialisation brings growth and prosperity, but it also brings a standardisation. In many ways, that’s a good thing (we’d rather not die of trichinosis), but local delights that for whatever reason aren’t scalable tend to get sidelined. The team at North is part of the new wave of Thai chefs who deeply investigate the history and geography of Thai foodways. North’s cuisine showcases the many migratory waves that came through Lanna, with Yunnan-influenced khao soi that has a camphor quality owing to the heavy use of black cardamom, and Burmese-influenced “pea pillows” that will show you a whole new side of split peas.
Time Out tip: There’s nothing more Northern than a khan toke, a collection of little local dishes on a tray that symbolises classic Lanna hospitality. North’s khan toke set for two is a great crash course on the flavours of the region, elevated with wagyu hang le curry and heirloom rice.