Literally consisting of rice and curry, khao gaeng is one of the most understated street eats in the city. This dish’s reputation has long suffered because of, in most cases, the use of low-quality ingredients and its association to canteen-style food. Three connoisseurs of Thai cuisine, who have long built their fame in Bangkok’s food scene—Chef Chetphuchit Thakoengsak (food consultant and finalist of Top Chef Thailand), Chef Patchara Pirapak (former head chef of fine-dining Thai restaurant Saneh Jaan), and Kanokwan Asawanuchit (noted food blogger)—are hoping to save khao gaeng from its less than reputable status by delivering their own variations on this traditional comfort dish.
Situated in Soi Nak Niwas 21 in outer Bangkok, Rossaneh reimagines the usual image of a khao gaeng shop by substituting a ramshackle shack with a hip venue. Taking up space inside an old shophouse, Rossaneh is a striking eatery decorated with splashes of bold color, from brightly painted walls to floral-patterned tablecloths to eye-catching murals depicting traditional weaving crafts. The shopfront sees life-sized standees of the owners welcoming guests. Despite the hip upgrade, the shop retains a traditional-style khao kaeng counter bar where diners can choose their mains.
Rossaneh’s curries rise above other khao geang counterparts thanks to an intense and meticulously executed paste that goes into each variation. The choices (starting from B49) vary daily, but mainstays include gaeng kua, a fragrant coconut milk-based curry flavored with turmeric and served with pieces of pork jowl; a sweet and sour gaeng runjuan, a beef curry mixed with shrimp paste; and a flavorsome green curry with chicken. Curries aside, don’t miss the five-spiced roasted pork knuckles served with seafood sauce (B69), and the shrimp paste chili relish served with fried Thai mackerel and deep-fried vegetables (B89).
Rossaneh manages to elevate khao gaeng, thanks to the use of traditional recipes and meticulous cooking techniques. If travelling out of town is too difficult, you may have to wait a bit until the owners push through with their plan to open another outpost in the city center. And when they do, we’re keeping our fingers crossed they’ll keep the reasonable prices.
