Last year witnessed too many omakase restaurant openings in Bangkok, such that a new player is sure to receive less fanfare and can do very little to excite foodies and epicures. But with two Michelin stars credentials, the Osaka-originating Sushiyoshi hopes to capture the attention of deep-pocketed gourmands by delivering an extravagant dining experience provided by high-profile sushi master Nakanoue Hiroki.
Guests can enter Sushiyoshi either through a traditional blond-wood panelled entrance facing House on Sathorn or the one located inside W Bangkok Hotel. Inside, a narrow corridor leads to a minimally decorated dining room dominated by a 12-seater sushi counter. Unlike most omakase joints we’ve encountered, where only a few chefs were present, the Bangkok outlet of Sushiyoshi is driven by a large number of sushi chefs, both Thai and Japanese, making the whole scene look more like an open kitchen.
The full course (B6,800) presents 20 carefully crafted bites, including simple-looking edomae style nigiri and beautifully presented small dishes that made us think for a second that we were enjoying a tasting menu in a fusion restaurant. The meal kicked off with an intensely flavored lobster bisque, followed by a parade of fresh seafood bites. There’s kinki sushi, which combines a sweet fish with finely chopped shiitake instead of rice; a delicate kindemai sushi; shako (mantis shrimp) served with matsutake mushroom; an indulgent Murasaki sea urchin; and hay-grilled managatsuo (silver pomfret).
But Chef Nakanoue’s finesse really shines in a dish of firm steamed abalone with uni sauce, a kisu (Japanese whiting) flecked with Grana Padano cheese, and a sweet shrimp carpaccio served with lobster and lobster bisque ice cream.
Each meal is carefully crafted and perfect for the ’Gram, but most of the sushi bites are served—literally—on your hand, which kind of dictates diners to eat them at once for the optimal taste. Merging the classic and the creative, it’s a fancy sushi experience that will please traditionalists and adventure-seeking foodies alike.
