When Gil Fernandes hadn't even dreamed of being in the kitchen yet, Fortaleza do Guincho was awarded its first Michelin star, which it still holds today. That was back in 2001. Fast forward to 2024, Gil is now the face of the restaurant, which reopened this week after some much-needed renovation works.
The changes are immediately noticeable upon entering the five-star hotel, perched above the ocean, right on the Guincho road. Passing through the imposing door, there are now several inviting areas to linger. While there are limitations on what can be done due to its classification as a Public Interest Property, the increasing effort to keep up with the times is evident. What started as a small initial pause for maintenance ended up becoming a minor revolution that took ten weeks. "Since we were going to have to close for some room renovations – they all have new bathrooms –, we ended up taking the opportunity to do everything," says Petra Sauer, General Manager of Fortaleza do Guincho.
With "everything," Petra also refers to the bar and, especially, the restaurant headed by Gil Fernandes. Inspired by the sea of Guincho that bathes the restaurant and delving into its history, the chef introduces himself through two tasting menus (145€-190€) where Portuguese flavors stand out, presented in a creative, dynamic, and technically skilled manner. Since taking on the role in 2018, following the departure of Miguel Rocha Vieira, at the time becoming the youngest chef with a Michelin star – he was 28 years old –, Gil has established himself as a breath of fresh air in a historic hotel.
Restaurant with a Fresh Look
After five years, the restaurant's dining room feels lighter. Light tones, especially white, stand out. The paintings that adorned the space are gone, replaced today by a tapestry inspired by the seabed, created by Vanessa Barragão, the same artist whose work made headlines this week when António Costa chose one of her pieces to donate to the UN. The chairs, previously striped blue, are now also white. In the kitchen, the improvements are primarily functional and essential for the well-being of a team that remains focused.
Petra never tires of emphasizing how much Gil Fernandes needed this change and to feel that the hotel was with him. The consequence, the chef hopes, is increasingly consistent and mature work.