Dirty old men haven't gone the way of peep shows; they've ended up here. On a recent afternoon, about a dozen of them lavished attention on the Polish bartender in a skimpy halter top who downs shots with the googly-eyed customers. Competing for attention is Jeopardy! on the TV, which elicits shouted-out answers from the brew crew as it chomps on pretzels served in big bowls. And for those harboring dreams of a better place to be, there's a lotto machine on-site.