Square One

Order a glass of wine here, and you’re handed a card; the card gives you access to wines on tap that you serve yourself. Order a cocktail, and a buff bartender will stir it gingerly until it’s exactly the right amount of chilled. Order some cheese, and you’ll get it with housemade plum preserves. But order a Heineken, and all you’ll get is an apologetic speech about how this contemporary corner bar serves only the craft stuff.