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Beef tongue | How chefs are cooking with it

An old-school ingredient is experiencing a comeback.

Photograph: Martha Williams

�When you have a big tongue sitting in the case, they�re like �Oh, my God, it�s a tongue,�?� Cleetus Friedman says. But after Friedman thinly slices the tongue (which has been corned) and turns it into a Reuben, or includes it on City Provisions� �butcher�s breakfast� (a combo platter of eggs, toast, fries and meats), people are much less freaked out.

Photograph: Martha Williams

Matt Troost�s brunch at Three Aces is much like his dinner, so it�s no shock to find that his hash is made with tongue. The tongue is poached with aromatics and spices, and it picks up all those flavors and brings it to the potato hash, which is topped with bone-marrow hollandaise, fried and pickled shallots, and a fried egg.

Photograph: Martha Williams

Two techniques are used on the tongue served at Matthias Merges�s Yusho: braising, which softens the tongue, and grilling, which crisps it up. The thin slices are threaded onto a skewer and served with horseradish and crispy kale. Merges swears he wasn�t thinking of it like a deconstructed sandwich, but it screams Jewish deli to us.