Photograph: Martha Williams
Photograph: Martha Williams |

When a brunch menu begins with a section devoted to chilled seafood, you know you’re in a place that’s not going to Oreo-encrust its pancakes. You could spend your entire brunch at Maison (330 E Randolph St, suite 300, 312-241-1540) noshing on those seafood towers, soft-boiled eggs and cups of coffee refilled from sparking silver carafes. But in our opinion, brunch here isn’t complete without an order of the beignets, a collaborative dish by chef Perry Hendrix and pastry chef Erin Mooney that takes doughnuts where they rarely go: upscale.

The beignets
“I’m not a huge sweet fan,” Hendrix says. “That’s why I like the combination of fresh cheese and sweets.” Wait, did Hendrix say he wasn’t a huge sugar fan? Because dude is a self-proclaimed “sucker” for doughnuts. “I feel blessed that my train stop is a block from Do-Rite Donuts,” he admits. Mooney sticks to a classic New Orleans style for her beignets, tossing them in granulated sugar.

Photo: Martha Williams

Beignets and ricotta at Maison | Brunch breakdown

Chef Perry Hendrix puts out a sophisticated take on a plate of doughnuts.

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