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Photograph: Martha Williams

Brunch review: Dodo at Dino's

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Dodo at Dino’s When Kim Dalton ran Dodo on Damen Avenue (in the space that now houses Jam), she was the darling of the Ukrainian Village. Now, she’s revived her brunch spot on weekends only at Dino’s Morgan Inn, a dive tucked along a strip of meat-packing plants. The locale is both a boon and a bummer: There’s something spunky about the popped-up nature of Dalton’s enterprise, but there was also something too greasy about the cabbage-stuffed Japanese pancake (formerly a Dodo signature) and the hash of the day—a breakfast spin on Italian beef that paired Italian sausage with giardiniera and potatoes. It didn’t help that the food took forever to arrive, though coffee mugs were refilled with the zeal that only a true brunch veteran like Dalton could muster. 954 W Fulton Mkt (312-226-5300). Bus: 8, 20, 65. Brunch served 8am–3pm (Sat, Sun only). Average main course: $9.—Julia Kramer

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