Rating Enoteca Roma's outdoor eating space

2146 W Division St (773-772-7700) Wicker Park’s Division Street likely won’t be mistaken for bella Italia, except maybe the two-storefront...

Photograph: Jeremy Bolen

2146 W Division St (773-772-7700)

Wicker Park’s Division Street likely won’t be mistaken for bella Italia, except maybe the two-storefront stretch occupied by Rome native Letizia Sorano and son Fabio’s restaurant and adjacent Letizia’s Bakery. Here, the alfresco options are twofold: Head to the quiet, spacious rear patio to dine on rustic Italian fare amid leafy plants and a fountain, or take in the lively street scene out front. Thoughtful touches such as blankets on cooler nights, as well as a perfectly attentive waitstaff, begin to justify menu prices that seem a bit high. But if you’re still bothered, just imagine yourself on a Roman holiday traveling against a weak dollar.

FOOD7Housemade pastas and polenta are specialties; some items seem too pricey
DRINKS7Great beer selection complements lengthy wine list
CROWD7Civilized Division Street revelers
VIEW7Bustling street in front; quiet, romantic garden in back
SPACE8Fountain and balconied wall conjure a night in Rome
TOTAL 36

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