5910 N Broadway (773-275-2696)
First, its virtues: Towering trees shade most of the enormous two-level garden at this 51-year-old Edgewater institution. The straightforward half-pound burgers (no farm-fresh cheese or elk patties here) are a notch above average and taste like something your dad grilled when you were a kid. The beer is cheap: $11.25 for an Anchor Steam pitcher. But holy God, the service is pull-your-hair-out slow, and the servers, mostly indifferent twentysomething or matronly ladies, rarely crack a smile (see fig. 5). Our solution: Order multiple pitchers at a time and make no plans for the rest of the evening. You probably wouldn’t want to be anywhere else anyway.
FOOD4Definitely comfort food, but not all that memorable
DRINKS5Decent beer at good prices, sangria that’ll knock you to the floor
CROWD7Lots of couples; can get rowdy late
VIEW5Not much to see other than busy Broadway
SPACE6Weathered fountains that often don’t work add to charm