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Savory marshmallows | Trending

Chefs think beyond s'mores.
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
Photograph: Erica GannettChocolate bouchon with foie fluff at Girl & the Goat
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
Photograph: Erica GannettBeef tongue with horseradish marshmallow at Longman & Eagle
By David Tamarkin |

When Stephanie Izard challenged Amanda Rafalski with using foie gras in a dessert, the Girl & the Goat (809 W Randolph St, 312-492-6262) pastry chef was understandably unsure how to proceed. But when she started working on a chocolate dessert that incorporated marshmallow, she felt she had found her opening. Mixing foie with the marshmallow was “a leap of faith,” Rafalski says. “I had no idea if it would work.” Turns out it did: The foie adds a richness to the marshmallow that works with the equally rich chocolate bouchon it tops (pictured). Rafalski isn’t the only chef playing with savory marshmallows: On the newest menu of graham elliot (217 W Huron St, 312-624-9975), marshmallow shows up in a pumpkin course. And at Longman & Eagle (2657 N Kedzie Ave, 773-276-7110), a sous vide beef tongue comes with a horseradish marshmallow. “It’s super light,” Longman chef Jared Wentworth says of the marshmallow, which he makes with glucose instead of sugar so that the end product is more savory. In Wentworth’s experience, savory marshmallows are one of those items that diners get used to pretty quickly—it’s just a matter of convincing them to order it. “On paper it might sound kind of ridiculous,” he says. “[But] it eats really well.”­

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