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There’s a lot to love about this casual Italian Boystown eatery: It’s BYOB; it’s bustling without being a clubby mob scene; the design is sleek but comfortable; and the simple Italian dishes are much-needed in this Italian-bereft ’hood. Dishes to try include the pollo al mattone, a Tuscan herb–rubbed half chicken; salmon arrosto, pan-seared salmon with a saffron risotto; and the comforting baked eggplant melanzane alla parmigiana.