The vibe: This dark, 50-seater leans decidedly cozier than its bright predecessor Wherewithall, with green walls and homey accents like vintage trinket plates and colorful Ukrainian fabric upholstery. Walk-ins can post up at the sultry bar amid the candlelight and leafy plants.
The food: Modern meets traditional Ukrainian—fulfilling, heavy on root vegetables, oily fish and grains, and often sporting a sour edge from naturally fermented ingredients. Try to order at least one item from every section, broken into zakusky (small plates), broth, dumplings and noodles, vegetables, fish and meat, sides and desserts.
The drink: Spirit-forward cocktails are seasoned with infusions, bitter aperitifs and house-fermented kefir. Knowledgeable staff will guide you through the all-Eastern European wine list. A few favorites by the glass include the mineral, salty Črnko "Jareninčan” Welschriesling from Slovenia and lush, Chardonnay-like Bodrog Bormühely from Hungary. Spirit-free drinkers can opt for kvass, a traditional house-fermented beverage resembling kombucha.
Time Out tips: In the bar, the four stools overlooking the kitchen are all available for walk-ins, like an unofficial chef’s table. Anelya also sees the most reservation cancellations on Saturdays, meaning walk-ins have a good chance at scoring a table. For reservations, we suggest booking two weeks out.
Updated with reporting by Lauren Brocato