Ay Ay Picante

Pan-flute versions of classic pop songs repeat (and repeat) on the speakers at this cheerful spot. Specialties include ocopa, potato slices topped with a creamy basil-and-walnut sauce; heaping portions of ceviche with tart, tender slices of tilapia and octopus; lomo saltado, heavily spiced strips of beef topped with a pile of fries to soak up the juices; and a rich slice of caramel cake good enough to make even the fifth play of “Dust in the Wind” (yes, a pan-flute version) tolerable.